Best Tips to Sell Antiques and Collectibles

If you are looking to sell your antiques and collectibles, you'll find that there are many ways you can sell them easily and quickly. However, if you want to sell them for the most cash possible, you'll have to do a little research. You'll have to learn as much as you can about your items and the best venue to sell them.

Step 1
Identify your items so you can accurately market them. Learn the age and origin of each item. Assess the condition of your items against those in the marketplace. There are many antiques and collectibles guide books that can help you identify many commonly available items. A visit to antiques and collectibles shows will provide you with the opportunity to ask questions to dealers of similar items.

Step 2
Research the value of your items. The Completed Listings section of eBay will show recent sales of similar items. Antiques and collectibles guides, especially specialty guides--for glassware or toys, for instance--are useful in this. When you visit shows, look at the prices of similar items, but remember that most dealers don't expect to get the full ticket price.

Step 3
Determine the price you can reasonably expect to get for your items. For most items, especially commonly-available collectibles, you shouldn't expect to get top dollar. Full retail prices are usually paid only by collectors buying from knowledgeable dealers. Remember that a dealer makes significant investments in time and money to find a buyer at full price. If an antique or collectible is especially fine or rare, you may be able to garner more cash for it.

Step 4
Use eBay or Craigslist to sell items that are common and relatively inexpensive. Auctions on eBay are easy to use, and with accurate descriptions and good pictures, they can attract a lot of interest in your items. You will pay a fee to use eBay. Craigslist is free to use and is good for selling larger and more valuable items. Craigslist gives you the opportunity to entertain good offers and decline unacceptable ones.

Step 5
Work with a local, high-end antique dealer to sell valuable or rare antiques. You'll pay a commission--about 25 to 40 percent--for his services, but he'll know how to market your piece and will have greater access to eligible buyers. Likewise, a local auction house can be useful in attracting interested parties. Auctioneers hold specialty sales--Asian art or modern design, for instance--that might be useful in selling rare and valuable items.

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Buy Designer Clothes Wholesale

Designer clothes are very desired by both men and women. Due to the high-quality materials used and cutting-edge designs, designer clothing usually comes with a hefty price tag attached. Whether you're looking to resell designer clothing for a profit or simply want to score great deals on couture items, you can purchase wholesale designer clothes. When you purchase wholesale, you generally have to buy in bulk, but you do save significant amounts of money.

Determine the specific designer whose clothes you want to purchase. There are wholesalers that are dedicated to a particular brand and those that carry various designer labels. If you have particular clothing items you are after such as pants, dresses or accessories, it will help to focus your search.

Know the market. You won't know if you're getting a good deal on wholesale pieces unless you know retail prices. Conduct some quick searches to see the going rates for particular items. If you'll be reselling the clothing at standard retail prices, calculate the price you'll need to pay wholesale in order to make a decent profit.

Find designer wholesale outlets. Websites such as Ice Canada, Inc. and The Fashion Depot offer wholesale designer clothing. See the links in our Resources section for access to these companies.

Contact specific designer brands directly to see if you qualify for their wholesale prices. Most brands require that you have a business license and physical location for reselling clothing in a traditional retail setting. The requirements do vary between companies.

Compare prices between a few different wholesale companies. You'll often find price variations, particularly on designer items. Take the time to fully familiarize yourself with the competition before making a commitment to a particular company.

Check the number of items you have to purchase in order to get wholesale pricing. Most wholesalers require that you purchase an item in bulk in order to get the reduced pricing on it. You'll need to project your sales on a particular piece in order to tell if it's worth it to purchase it in bulk.

Confirm that the wholesaler is an authorized designer merchant. Many people make a quick profit by deceiving the public with fake designer goods. Don't be fooled by impressive replicas. Make sure the wholesaler in question is legit and the items are, indeed, authentic. The best place to start is checking out the Better Business Bureau.

Finalize your purchase. In most cases, you can have the items shipped to your home or office. Since your order will likely be large, shipping costs can add up. Wholesale shipments can also take quite a while to reach you, oftentimes up to 12 weeks.

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Find Out Value of Baseball Cards

Although seeking out baseball cards featuring your favorite players might have started out as an innocent childhood activity, it has now become a more serious, and occasionally even lucrative, hobby for adults. Before diving headfirst into both the buying and selling of baseball cards, take the time to learn how to properly price baseball cards using different avenues so that you will be better able to get the most for your money.

Step 1
Evaluate the condition of your baseball cards so that you will be able to more accurately price the value of your cards. When determining the condition of the card and how much it is worth, you will need to consider such factors as physical condition, authenticity, the year that the card was issued (cards from after 1980 have a much lower chance of even being sold), the demand for the card, the player on the card (rookie and Hall of Famer cards are worth more), rareness (a card will be worth more if only a small number were produced) and whether the card has the signature of the featured baseball player.

Step 2
Perform a search on an online auction site, such as eBay, to get an initial idea of the worth of each of your baseball cards. While you might not find every card that you are interested in selling on such a site, it is highly probable that you will find listings for popular baseball cards that are in demand. Take note of whether a particular card sells easily and how much it generally sells for based on its condition so that you can price your baseball cards accordingly if you choose to sell them.

Step 3
Look through a baseball card price guide, such as “Beckett Baseball Card Price Guide” or “Standard Catalog of Baseball Cards,” to determine the value of single cards or sets of baseball cards. You can find price guides at your local bookstores, newsstands, sports stores or libraries. As most price guides are updated monthly or bimonthly, with a special annual edition, the pricing information will always be relevant. There are also a number of online baseball card price guides, often created by the same companies that publish physical copies of the guides, which can be accessed by purchasing a subscription.

Step 4
Submit your baseball cards to Professional Sports Authenticator, a renowned grading company, to receive a professional grade for the cards. A professional grade is based on the overall condition and factors surrounding a baseball card and will give you the most accurate price for your cards. As it does cost money to have your baseball cards authenticated, do the proper research and submit only the cards that you believe possess higher values. By having your baseball cards authenticated, you will preserve the value of each card and show your buyers that your baseball cards are authentic and properly priced.

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Best Tips for Cleaning Antique Bisque Dolls

Collecting antique dolls can be a rewarding hobby or business venture, their proper preservation them is an absolute necessity. To preserve them and their respective period clothing for posterity, it is important to learn how to take meticulous care of them without damaging their value.

Wash your hands thoroughly before you touch the doll, to remove any oils and excess dirt. Do this regularly throughout the cleaning process unless you choose to use rubber gloves. This is important because the natural oils form your hands would otherwise transfer from your hands to the doll or its clothing and cause a buildup that would in time damage the doll.

Check the condition of the doll before you begin cleaning it. If there are any cracks, missing pieces, scratches or other damaged areas, it is advisable to seek the advice of a professional.

Use the paper towel and a mild cleanser to wipe off the doll's vinyl or plastic exterior. Use a dry paper towel to dry off the doll. Clean the eyes, ears, mouth and in between the doll's fingers with cotton balls. You can also use a little mild oxygenated cleanser to loosen dirt and stains.

Polish the bisque doll using a paper towel and liquid glass, which you can get at most auto parts stores. Finish polishing by buffing your doll using a soft, dry cloth.

Clean any washable doll clothing with a powdered baby detergent. Let the clothes soak in a soapy solution and then let them air-dry on a towel. Use a slightly warm iron to press the dried clothes. For non-washable doll clothes, clean these garment with some foaming carpet cleaner and a soft brush to remove dried residue.

Clean all cloth doll parts using dry cornstarch. Rub the cornstarch on very carefully, leaving it on for at least eight hours. Uses a soft brush to brush off the excess.

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Tips for Cleaning Antique Bisque Dolls

Collecting antique dolls can be a rewarding hobby or business venture, their proper preservation them is an absolute necessity. To preserve them and their respective period clothing for posterity, it is important to learn how to take meticulous care of them without damaging their value.

Wash your hands thoroughly before you touch the doll, to remove any oils and excess dirt. Do this regularly throughout the cleaning process unless you choose to use rubber gloves. This is important because the natural oils form your hands would otherwise transfer from your hands to the doll or its clothing and cause a buildup that would in time damage the doll.

Check the condition of the doll before you begin cleaning it. If there are any cracks, missing pieces, scratches or other damaged areas, it is advisable to seek the advice of a professional.

Use the paper towel and a mild cleanser to wipe off the doll's vinyl or plastic exterior. Use a dry paper towel to dry off the doll. Clean the eyes, ears, mouth and in between the doll's fingers with cotton balls. You can also use a little mild oxygenated cleanser to loosen dirt and stains.

Polish the bisque doll using a paper towel and liquid glass, which you can get at most auto parts stores. Finish polishing by buffing your doll using a soft, dry cloth.

Clean any washable doll clothing with a powdered baby detergent. Let the clothes soak in a soapy solution and then let them air-dry on a towel. Use a slightly warm iron to press the dried clothes. For non-washable doll clothes, clean these garment with some foaming carpet cleaner and a soft brush to remove dried residue.

Clean all cloth doll parts using dry cornstarch. Rub the cornstarch on very carefully, leaving it on for at least eight hours. Uses a soft brush to brush off the excess.

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Tips to Identify Authentic Lladro

Since 1953, Lladro creations have continued to inspire and innovate. Collected worldwide, these luxurious figurines are always in demand. Occasionally, sellers will try to pass of a fake figurine as authentic. Follow these steps to determine the authenticity before you buy.

Identifying Authentic Lladros
First, look at the bottom of the figurine. The porcelain should also be engraved with a logotype that looks similar to a blue bell or tulip, the name Lladro and will say "Made in Spain." The logotypes have changed over the years but every example can be found on the official Lladro site. Be wary of any seller who will not show the bottom of the figurine before buying.

Second, search the Lladro catalogues. Every authentic piece has been catalogued and on the official site even lists the suggested retail price of the item. Checking the piece out this way is an excellent resource and a good check to see if the price that you are paying is on par with the value of the figurine.

Third, go to the official Lladro website and use the number found on the bottom of the figurine; this is called the serial number, authenticity code or limited series number. If there is not a number on the bottom, then you should be able to locate the number on the authenticity card that comes with the figurine. You can input this number into the Lladro website and the site will immediately verify its authenticity.

Fourth, if you are still in doubt as the authenticity of the figurine, you can contact the Customer Service department of Lladro. They will authenticate the piece, free of charge. Go to the website and use the Contact Us link to get the current email address. Lladro will require you to send the serial number or reference number, pictures of the bottom and other pictures of the figurine. For anyone that purchases luxury items, free authenticity verification is a tremendous help.

Finally, if you are unable to wait for verification from the company or cannot confirm authenticity from the steps above, you may want to consider hiring a local appraiser. You can usually find a local appraiser by contacting a store that sells Lladro figurines. These stores usually have someone they recommend and will most likely provide you with contact information.

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Best Tips to Clean Air Hockey Tables

An air hockey table's puck glides on a thin curtain of air -- ideally into the other player's goal. If spills, dirt or dust build up on your table, however, your puck can grind to a halt at the worst possible moment. To prevent this frustrating experience, clean your table regularly.

Step 1
Turn your air hockey table on. Check the air holes to see if any of them are obstructed by dust or other buildup. Note that you should keep the air blowing throughout the rest of the cleaning process -- this is necessary to keep any of the cleaning fluids or the gunk you're removing from going down the holes and clogging things up even worse.

Step 2
Clean any blocked holes using a needle or toothpick. Gently ease obstructions out of the hole and remove them from the table.

Step 3
Wipe the surface of the table gently with a soft cleaning cloth to remove dust. Be on the lookout for any spills or other buildup; you may need to rub these areas a little more firmly.

Step 4
Dampen your cleaning cloth with a diluted solution of mild detergent and water; alternatively, spray it lightly with glass cleaner. Wipe the surface of the table with the cloth. Use another lightly dampened cloth to clean away any detergent residue.

Step 5
Apply table polish to the surface of the table. Once the polish dries, buff it by rubbing it with another cloth.

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Tips to Chain Gears of Cuckoo Clocks

Putting a chain back on a cuckoo clock's gear is possible but not easy to do. If, however, you do not have access to a clock repair shop that specializes in cuckoo clocks with some time and patience you can make this repair yourself.

Step 1
Pull all the chains all the way up, remove the weights and carefully tie the chains securely together at the bottom of the clock so that they do not move at all. This is necessary since you'll be turning the clock upside-down.

Step 2
Turn the clock around and remove the back. Look inside the housing; you will see the gears and your fallen chain caught on one gear' s axle. Your goal is to thread this fallen chain back onto its gear.

Step 3
Stick your hook inside the clock and find out which direction the gear turns by gently trying to rotate it in either direction.

Step 4
Turn the clock upside down and use the hook to work the fallen chain up and over its gear. It might help if you can turn the gear with your finger as you gently pull on one side of the chain to help it to catch. Once you have balanced the chain up and over the gear, pull both ends of the chain taut and carefully turn the clock back upright.

Step 5
Hang the clock back on the wall, untie all of the chains and re-hang the weights. Pull the weight on the chain you just fixed all the way up to match the other weights. Set the pendulum in motion; your clock should now work properly.

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Tell if Your Book is Antique

In general, antiques are considered to be 100 years or older. This stems from customs law. For book collectors, however, age is not the primary consideration. A first edition, first printing copy of "Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone," for example, sold for $37,000. An 1845 first-edition copy of Edgar Allan Poe's "The Raven," meanwhile, can be had for $400. But money isn't everything. Books have tales to tell, and if you've stumbled on an old volume, you likely want to learn its history.

Step 1
Look at your book's cover. Modern books as we know them, mass produced in a uniform manner, date to around Civil War times, according to "Book Finds: How to Find, Buy, and Sell Used and Rare Books," by Ian Ellis. Before the mid-19th century, books could be custom bound for wealthy readers in luxe leather, or purchased as serials bound in raw paper. Between the Civil War and the International Copyright Act of 1891, as literacy grew, books were quickly mass produced as "truly ugly, appalling things" to meet the demand, and then became more standardized with cloth covers, Ellis says.

Step 2
Check the dust cover. If your book has a dust jacket, it's likely no older than the late 19th century, and probably much more recent, because these are fragile. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which has a collection of dust jackets, says few survive from before the 1890s.

Step 3
Open your book, and look at the copyright page on the back of the title page. Modern books' title pages tell you what year the book was published and in which edition. Some include information such as the publisher and city where the book was published. Books published from 1970 on include an International Standard Book Number, ISBN. Books from the 19th century and older might not include a copyright date, though, so that's where it gets interesting.

Step 4
Delve into research about the author. If your book has no copyright date, check bibliographies of the author's work, suggests "Empty Mirror Magazine of the Arts." You also can research the illustrator, the publisher and references in the text -- if the last year referenced in a history is 1882, the "Empty Mirror" author points out, that's a hint the volume is from around the turn of the century.

Step 5
Run your fingers across a page. Experts can tell how old a book is by the look and feel of the paper, and its method of printing the text and illustrations. If the book was put together on movable type, dating from Gutenberg and 1450, it will have raised type that you can feel on the page. Eighteenth and early 19th century printers might have used an intaglio process. Modern books use offset printing, in which the letters feel smooth and flat.

Step 6
Check the paper quality. Wood pulp paper, still used today, dates to about 1850. Rag-based paper, which might have a watermark, and is strong and flexible, could mean the book was printed before 1850. But modern books sometimes use rag-based paper to simulate an antique look, according to "Americana Exchange Monthly," a publication for book collectors.

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Sea Glass Vs. Beach Glass

Beachcombers across the world spend their free time searching for broken bits of glass polished smooth by waves and sand. On ocean beaches, collectors call the shiny shards sea glass. On inland shores, enthusiasts refer to the naturally polished fragments as beach glass. In the United States, beachcombers often congregate on the shores of Cape Cod or Lake Erie to discover the colorful gems often used in custom jewelry.

Step 1
Walk in one direction along the wrack line--the line of debris left by the last high tide or storm. Examine closely places with many tiny stones. Walk the same line in the opposite direction. If you found one piece of glass, search the area again for pieces you might have missed.

Step 2
Make another pass along the beach at the water's edge. Walk slowly, sweeping your eyes from your feet ahead about a couple yards and from side to side in an arc of a couple yards away from water. Examine pockets of small stones for glass. On rocky beaches, the pieces may be tucked in the lee of larger stones.

Step 3
Turn and retrace your steps about 10 to 12 feet away from the water, again sweeping your eyes from feet to ahead and side to side. Repeat these passes until you have covered the beach.

Step 4
Watch for reflective surfaces. Bright sunlight usually helps by reflecting glint or gleams. Don't overlook bright days in winter if the beach isn't frozen.

Step 5
Comb beaches near where creeks, streams or rivers enter. Many years ago trash dumps were common along these paths where bottles and other debris washed into the lake or ocean. Some of the finest glass gems have been polished by waves and sand for decades. Some of the rarest colors are from glass that hasn't been common for a long time. Red glass, for example, was used in automobile taillights before World War II until plastics replaced glass.

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Convert TV Armoire Into Sewing Station

With the rising popularity of plasma or LCD (liquid crystal display) televisions, TV armoires, which hid the bulky TV predecessors, are becoming a thing of the past. Because of this change, a lot of unused entertainment centers and TV armoires are donated, sold in garage sales, handed down to friends and relatives or being put out with the trash. There is, however, another way to use the TV armoire so that it will not go to waste. It can be repurposed into a sewing or craft station.

Step 1
Wipe your TV armoire with damp cloth to remove dust and dirt. If the finish is still in good condition, clean it with Murphy's Oil Soap to retain its shine. If it is scratched, you may want to refinish, restain or paint the wood. You can use regular paint that can be used for wood or you can use milk paint for a more country look. Paint both inside and out.

Step 2
Attach fabric to the inner cabinet wall with a spray-on starch, glue or staples. Spraying starch would not damage the wood, and it will allow you to remove or change fabric easily if you want to. You can also add the fabric on the inner side of the armoire doors.

Step 3
Add teacup hooks on the inner cabinet wall and doors to hang items such as your scissors, tape measure and fabric samples.

Step 4
Staple batting and matching fabric to cover a cork board large enough to be a message board. Lay out the ribbon across the board in a criss-cross pattern, and secure the ribbon with thumbtacks. The ribbon will provide you with a place to hold pictures, memos, notes and photos. Hang the message board either on the inner wall of the cabinet or the inner part of the cabinet doors.

Step 5
Place your sewing machine on the TV tray that slides out. If your armoire's shelf doesn't slide out, measure the depth of the armoire and purchase sliders or tracks with rollers that would fit in your cabinet. Home improvement stores will carry the sliders or tracks. Then remove the stationary shelf, install the tracks and rollers according to the manufacturer's instructions, and reconnect the shelf on top. Now you have a pull-out or slide-out shelf.

Step 6
Add organizer baskets, shoeboxes or hat boxes on the remaining unused shelves, giving you a place where you can put the other items you need for your craft or sewing projects. Use every inch of space like spare drawers underneath to store folded fabrics and other craft materials.

Step 7
Add a swivel high chair or stool that you can use when you sew or work on your new sewing station.

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Collecting The Currier & Ives Dishware

Remember those blue and white dishes with the beautiful scenery glazed on them? You probably ate on them at your grandmother's house, or saw them lying around your mom's cupboard. They're collectors items now, and some of the more rare pieces are even worth a fare sum. Unlike other items, however, they are fairly easy to collect once you know where to start.

Familiarize yourself with the types of plates available. The fun part about collecting Currier & Ives dishes is the sheer variety of objects available. Royal China, the company that first manufactured Currier & Ives plates back in the 1950s, continuously came out with special pieces, such as mugs, dessert plates, and glasses, in addition to their regular dinnerware. Many of the hostess or holiday sets are extremely rare and a welcome bonus to any collection. There are also advertising items like wall plaques and prints first given out by sales reps trying to promote the brand. The more you familiarize yourself with the history and background, the better you'll be able to spot a rare find when you happen upon it.

Dinner plates, bread, butter plate, berry bowl
Common dishes are:

· Dinner plates · Tea cups · Tea cup saucers · Berry bowls · Bread & butter plates · Salad plates

Oval, dish, creamer, sugar
Harder to find items are:

· Cereal bowls · Glassware · Tabbed serving plates · Oval serving platters · Three different sized chop plates · Gravy boat · Large sized serving bowls · Sugar and creamer set · Butter dish

Covered soup tureen, tabbed gravy boat plate, coffee mug
More rare items are:

· Luncheon plates · Soup tureen · Tabbed gravy boat plate · Coffee mugs

Double scrolled teapot with lid
Most rare items are:

· Tea pot (with lid) · Three tiered serving stand · Egg plate · Hurricane lamp · Clock

Surf the Internet. Online stores, such as eBay, are a great place to begin your search for items. To find Currier & Ives dishware, vary your search phrasing. For example, "Currier & Ives" "blue C&I dishes" and "Royal China" are all phrases that will lead you to different areas of the site. Keep in mind that it all depends how people list the item they have. Change the search phrase until you find items you're looking for.

Flea markets and swap meets. Dealers at flea markets and swap meets all over town have various Currier & Ives dishware. Many dealers even specialize in it. If you see a dealer with a table full of Currier & Ives dishes, you'll probably ending up paying full market value for the piece. However, if you spot a dealer that has a hodge podge of items, Currier & Ives plates among them, grab them and negotiate a price. Dealers that sell Currier & Ives but don't specialize in them are generally more flexible in pricing and in working with buyers than those with large collections. Don't be shy in asking a dealer if they will come down on price - they expect you to do just that.

Antique stores. Prices are usually much higher at antique stores, but not always. Every once in a while a dealer will come across a Currier & Ives piece and not realize the value. There are so many pieces that were issues that no one person could keep track of them all. Collectors, in fact, are usually more up on what's worth money than the dealers generally are. Antique stores sometimes have the more rare and harder to find pieces, such as soup tureens and teapots.

Estate sales. When an entire household of furniture and collectibles is up for sale, this is called an estate sale. These are generally advertised in the local paper ahead of time, but you can also find them just by driving around your neighborhood on a weekend morning.

Rummage sales. Never forget the garage, tag, and rummage sales in your area. After all, sometimes this is exactly where dealers get their merchandise. Take a Saturday morning driving down the popular streets of your town and stay on the look out for signs. Generally from 9-5 are the best times to catch rummage sales, and many begin early in the week on Thursday. You never know how people come in contact with Currier & Ives dishes. Some folks ended up with them by choice and now want to downsize, while others just used them as their everyday plates and weren't aware that they were collectible. As with flea markets, always try to get the best possible price available.

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Cleaning Vintage Costume Jewelry

Vintage Costume Jewelry needs special attention when you clean it. Read on for tips on how to clean your costume jewelry.

Some costume jewelry will turned green. This is called verdigris and is a patina that occurs on copper, brass or bronze over time and can appear on your vintage costume jewelry because it was made with these metals in it. It is not something that you want to leave on your jewelry as it will start to decay it. Ketchup and vinegar can be used, but I think that lemon juice is better. You can use a q-tip or soft toothbrush to help get to the hard to reach places. You may find that the finish has been compromised from the vendigris, but that is better than loosing the piece to decay.

Scratching can ruin the old stones in your piece and make it look dull. To keep it looking like new always store it so that it isn't touching your other jewelry or wrap it with a old wash cloth. Zip lock bags work well for storage, too. If you have a room, displaying your jewelry in a curio cabinet is a great idea.

Vintage costume jewelry are usually set with prongs but some may still have glue to keep them in. You want to be careful and look at your piece before you put it in a jewelry cleaner full of jewelry cleaning solution. It will soften the glue. You particularly want to be careful with pieces that have colored backing as this will chip away or dissolve. Also, any pieces that are faux pearls will loose their outter shell or chip away and be ruined if put in water or any cleaning solution.

If your decide that your jewelry does meet the above criteria and you cannot soak it in a jewelry cleaning solution , then use a q-tip or soft toothbrush and the cleaning solution to clean your jewelry.

Finish up by using a very soft jewelry cleaning cloth to make your jewelry glow.

Make sure your jewelry is completely dry before you put it away as moisture is what causes verdigris.

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Get Selling Stock Certificates

Stock certificates can be fascinating snapshots of our country's financial history. They can also be as liquid as cash. If you find yourself in possession of stock certificates and you want to sell them, this article will explain how.There are two types of stock certificates. There are the certificates of companies that are still in business and whose stock is actively traded. An example of these would be AT&T; or General Motors. There are also the certificates of companies that are no longer in business but their certificates hold some value as a collectible. An example of this would be the Baltimore and Ohio (B&O;) Railroad Company, incorporated in 1830.

Selling Certificates of Actively Traded Issues
Look up the stock symbol. This is as simple as visiting Yahoo! Finance and typing in the name of the company. Click on “Symbol Lookup.”

Get a quote on the stock. Again, a visit to Yahoo! Finance will give you the current quote on the stock.

Determine how many shares of stock you have. This may be a little more involved than you think. First, the number of shares is printed on the face of the certificate. Multiply that number by the current share price to determine how much it is worth. However, your certificate may be worth more or less than that and more research is required.Often over an extended period of time, the stock of a given company will split forward or in reverse, multiplying the number of shares or dividing the number of shares by a given factor. For example, if you have a certificate for 100 shares of XYZ stock from 50 years ago and the stock has split 4 for 1 in the meantime, that 100 share certificate now represents 400 shares. Conversely, if XYZ went through a 10 for 1 reverse-split in the same time frame, your 100 share certificate would now represent 10 shares.The easiest way to determine how many shares your certificate represents is to call the transfer agent and give him the CUSIP number from the back of the certificate. You can find the transfer agent for any company by calling the company themselves or looking it up in the SEC documents relating to the company. The CUSIP (Committee on Uniform Securities Identification Procedures) number is a nine-digit alpha-numeric number located on the back of the certificate that the transfer agent will use to determine the exact number of shares.

Make sure the certificate is in your name. Your name must appear on the face of the certificate. If it does not, you will have to contact the transfer agent, prove the stock belongs to you, and request a new certificate to be issued in your name.The only time this is not necessary is when the certificate is signed on the back by the person named on the face of the certificate. A signed certificate is as good as cash, so be careful with it. Literally anyone who picks a signed stock certificate up on the street can cash it in. It is the same thing as a signed check.

Sign the certificate and deposit it into your brokerage account. Remember, once signed a stock certificate is as good as cash. If you don't have an open brokerage account, most local discount brokers will allow you to open a temporary account for the one-time disposition of stock certificates. Charles Schwab is one of the companies that offer this service.

Selling Certificates of Defunct Companies as Collectibles
Determine if the certificate is worth anything. Some are not. Some certificates are considered collectibles because they represent shares in companies that were famous at one time. Others are collectible because they represent shares in companies that were social oddities. An example of this would be stock certificates from The Mustang Ranch, a legal Nevada brothel shut down by the IRS in 1999, or shares in the Playboy Corporation, whose certificates had a pin-up girl on their face.To determine the potential value of your certificates, do some research on the Internet and call a few collectors. A link is provided in Resources below.

Sell to a collector. This may be the easiest way to sell an old stock certificate. Agree to a price up front and sell the certificate to a private collector.

Sell the certificate by auction. There are several collectibles auction houses available if the certificate is worth enough. Otherwise, there is always eBay.

Donate the certificate. If you don't need the cash and could use a tax deduction, donate the certificated to charity and let them handle the sale of it. You'll get a write-off and the money will go to a good cause.

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Tips on How to Make Circuit Board

Circuit boards have enabled electronics to leap forward in terms of complexity and consumer convenience. The simple sheet of non-conducting material with thin copper tracks etched onto one surface did away with wires and enabled complex circuits to be fitted into tiny spaces. Thin copper tracks replace wires, and the non-conducting sheet forms a strong base to mount the components on. Producing your own circuit board is a straightforward task requiring no previous electronic or engineering experience.

Step 1
Sketch out the schematic circuit on a piece of paper. Draw all the components, the connections between them and any external connections such as links to a power supply or a jack socket. With the schematic circuit complete and checked for errors, start to rearrange the layout to create a circuit diagram based on straight lines with no overlapping wires, much as you'd see on a finished circuit board.

Step 2
Cut a sheet of copper coated board to the desired size. Rub the copper surface with fine emery paper or a domestic scouring pad until it shines.

Step 3
Copy the circuit diagram onto the copper side of the board using an indelible marker pen. Check the diagram for accuracy, and then when you are satisfied that it is correct, carefully go over the marker pen lines with nail polish applied with a fine brush.

Step 4
Ensure that the area is well-ventilated. Don chemical-resistant gloves and mix a ferric chloride etching solution in a shallow glass container, using the concentration recommended by the manufacturer. Avoid skin contact at all times.

Step 5
Lower the circuit board into the etching fluid, with the copper side facing up. Agitate the dish to ensure the fluid flows over the surface of the board. Check the progress of the etching process every few minutes until the unprotected copper areas -- those not covered in nail polish -- have all been dissolved. Remove the board from the solution and wash it thoroughly under running water.

Step 6
Dry the board, and pour a little acetone onto a ball of cotton wool. Rub the etched circuit board with the acetone to remove the nail polish while avoiding contact with your skin.

Step 7
Drill holes for the legs of the components using a model-maker’s drill and a bit of the appropriate size for the component legs.

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How to Get a Ship in Bottle

Building a ship in a bottle is an art that has been practiced and perfected for centuries. Like all impossible bottle tricks, the ship in a bottle looks impossible only to those who do not know the secret.

Get a Ship in a Bottle
Get a bottle. The bottle's opening should be considerably smaller than the bulk of the bottle's diameter, but not any smaller than 1 or 2 inches.

Choose what type of ship you intend to build. Most artists of this kind like to create replicas of boats throughout history.

Measure the diameter of the bottle's opening. Keep this number handy. You will try to build the hull of the ship with a width and height less than that number.

Build the hull of the ship. Build everything except the mast, the spurs (support beams for sails) and the sails. Make sure this much of the boat can fit into the bottle.

Build the masts, spurs and sails separately. At the base of each of the masts, add a hinge. Each mast will need a hinge that can bend the sails at a near 90-degree angle.

Add the masts and sails to the rest of the ship. Make sure all the hinges are pointed so the open side of the hinges face the front of the boat.

Attach a line of sewing thread to each of the vertical, hinged masts. Connect the thread on the masts above the hinge. Make sure each thread is longer than the length of the bottle.

Mix paint or dye into putty to make the putty look blue, green or whatever your desired "sea" color should look like.

Get the putty inside the bottle. The putty will perform two functions: it will represent the sea and hold the ship in place.

Bend the masts forward and keep the thread pointed toward the rear of the ship. In this form, the ship should be able to fit into the bottle's opening.

Place the ship into the bottle and, using some homemade tools, place the ship firmly in the desired position on the putty. Make sure all the lines of thread are still outside the bottle.

Pull the lines of thread back gently, one at a time, to raise the masts and sails up to a perpendicular position. When the the optimum position is reached, cut away the threads.

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Easy Tips to Organize Record Collection

If your record collection is large enough to warrant its own old-school library-style card catalog, your organizational style determines whether you can find any given album in less time than it takes to play Side A. If you enjoy listening to the records, besides just storing them, arrange them using the method that makes the most sense for you to find what you seek, quickly.

Genre Groupings
Whether your collection spans a few genres or many, grouping albums by genre comes in handy if you spend time listening to several similar albums in an afternoon or while entertaining. Alphabetize the genres -- for instance, "ambient" goes on the shelf before "comedy" -- or group the genres based on which you listen to the most, keeping your favorites nearest the record player. Alphabetize the artists within each genre if the collection is sizable, so it takes less time to find what you're looking for. Store records in white sleeves outside of their covers but together in a mylar sleeve to prevent ring wear, especially those with light-colored covers.

Alphabetized Artists
Alphabetizing albums by the artist or band name allows you to find exactly what you want quickly. If you enjoy a particular artist enough to have every album he released, arrange them in chronological order, as you're likely to recall the albums in this manner anyway; otherwise, put all of his records in alphabetical order as well.

Beyond Albums
Some artists release 12-inch singles, featuring versions of singles longer or different than the tracks played on the radio or offered on the original album. If you have a number of 12-inch singles as well as a large record collection, keep the 12-inch records separated by artist or alphabetically to help find them faster.

Keep 45s in a separate area, also arranged by artist -- organizing the records by size makes for a more manageable collection and makes it easier to find the right single. Store the records in plain white sleeves, outside of their picture sleeves but together in a mylar sleeve, to prevent damage to the seams and corners.

For a collection of floppy, clear records, such as the type offered on the back of cereal boxes decades back, store those in clear sleeves, arranged by year or alphabetically. If they are colorful, display them on a wall in a record frame.

Keep 'Em Separated
After you've organized your records based on genre or artist, you need a way to quickly spot the end of one section and the beginning of another. File-folder separators with colored tags slip between records for a visible demarcation between one area and the next, especially if you write on the separators with a thick marker to make each section even more visible. A label maker prints out colored tags for each artist or section if you display your collection on wide bookshelves, for instance. For a playful and decorative way to tell one section from another, mark the areas with toys, knickknacks or postcards that help tell one section from another: Note Beatles or British Invasion albums with a toy British flag, for instance, while the ZZ Top album section might feature a bobblehead toy with a long beard and a guitar.

Organizing Electronically
If you need to organize what you have for insurance purposes, create a spreadsheet or database of your collection. You can purchase software specifically for record collecting, or download a free UPC scanner apps for your smartphone. UPC scanners can record data about each album just by zapping the barcode. The info may still need some cleanup after exporting to your computer, but it sure beats typing each one in. For those artists who span genres, you can also specify in your database where in your physical organization method each album is stored.

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Tips to Evaluate Antique Furnitures

Collecting antique furniture is a costly endeavor. You don't want to make any mistakes and buy a misrepresented piece that you thought was worth hundreds of dollars or more.

Signs of Age
Measure a piece of wood furniture. Wood shrinks as it ages by up to 1/8 inch per foot. If the furniture is old, its dimensions will not be uniform - it won't be the same width throughout, and a tabletop will not be completely round.

Run your hand over and shine a flashlight across the surface of the wood to detect hairline cracks and ripples that come with aging.

Look underneath for the inevitable warping and buckling of wood.

Look for wood that is discolored from uneven exposure to light and sun. An old piece of furniture that has stood against a wall for years will show its age with distinct differences in coloring.

Check the wood beneath the hardware. Here, the wood should show even greater contrasts in color.

Look at the screws. Screws made before 1840 had flat, un-tapered heads.

Search for the signs of normal wear and tear and the buildup of dust and grime in the furniture's corners and crevices.

Look at the frame under the upholstery for sets of nail holes from previous upholstery. An aged piece may have seen several changes in fabric.

Use a pocket level on a piece of glass or a mirror. Glass, too, warps with age.

Signs of Newness
Look closely at the various pieces of wood used in the furniture - particularly the edges and feet. Differences between the pieces would indicate that parts have been replaced.

Beware of smooth edges from a power saw in contrast to the ragged edges made by a handsaw.

Distinguish between the older plank-style construction and the more modern tongue-and-groove construction.

Inspect for old or filled nail and screw holes that would have been made when the piece was originally built.

Open drawers and doors and look for screw holes that indicate that the original handles and hinges are gone.

Look at dovetail joints. New dovetails are either machine-made or much narrower than the wide, up-to-3/8-inch dovetails of the 1800s.

Compare all the dovetail joints in the piece. Perfect matching could mean the furniture is newer than advertised. Gross differences would demonstrate that pieces have been replaced.

Check out the surfaces. Uniformity in coloring, texture and smoothness points to newness or refinishing.

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Wash & Shampoo Synthetic Hair Wigs

Synthetic wigs get dirty and, like real hair, they need regular shampooing to look their best. Washing knocks out oil and dirt that, if left alone, may shorten the life of your wigs. Synthetic wigs aren't as delicate as the human-hair variety, but cleaning yours carefully will help you avoid breakage.

Brush Up on Brushing
Brush your wig before washing it so the hairs don't get tangled in the water. If the wig hair is knotted, spritz it with wig spray to lubricate the fibers. Using your fingers, tease apart any large knots. Start brushing the wig at the ends and work your way the roots until you've removed all of the tangles. For best results, use a brush that has rubber-tipped bristles to protect the wig fibers from breakage.

Time for Suds
Aim to shampoo your wig after every 10 to 12 wearings, and use only products designed for synthetic wigs. If you use styling products with the wig, such as hairspray or mousse, you may need to wash it more often. Fill a sink or tub with approximately 2 quarts of cool water. Add two capfuls -- or about 1 tablespoon -- of synthetic wig shampoo. Submerge the wig fully in the soapy water, then swish it around for a minute. If the wig is very dirty, let it soak for as long as five minutes, then swish it around again.

Rinse and Dry
After you've cleaned the wig, you're ready to rinse and dry it. Remove the wig from the soapy water, then rinse it under cool, running water until you see no more suds. Pat the wig with a towel to absorb as much water as possible. Don't squeeze the wig between the towel or wring it out, because these actions may damage it. Spritz your wig with a small amount of conditioning spray, then use your fingers to spread the spray through the hair. Place the piece on a wig stand to dry, or stand the wig up on a shampoo bottle or hairspray can. This helps the wig keep its shape as it dries. Don't brush the wig until it's fully dry.

What to Avoid
Never use any electric styling device on your synthetic wig after you're done washing it. This includes hair dryers, curling irons, flat irons and hot rollers. Synthetic wigs are made of fibers that can frizz or even melt when subjected to too much heat. Once this happens, you can't repair the damage.

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How to Tell Stamping on European Antiques

Many European antiques, including china and silver, have stamping on the bottom that identifies the maker and other information about the piece. Exported items often were marked in ways to identify not only the country of origin but the material used in the piece. When identifying a European antique, turn it over and study the back to find a wealth of information.

What Stamps Show
Stamped marks on the back of European antiques nearly always list the manufacturer. Other markings help you identify the age of the piece. Manufacturers often changed their mark from time to time, so knowing when manufacturers used which mark helps you date a piece. This helps determine if a piece is old, since many manufacturers have been in business well over 200 years. If a manufacturer used several manufacturing sites, stamps also can help identify the manufacturing plant. Some manufacturers also included the name of the pattern.

Types of Stamps
A manufacturer's stamp can be rather cryptic. Manufacturers may have identified the year of manufacture with a letter of the alphabet or other designation rather than an actual date. Symbols portraying animals, plants or designs also were used to differentiate dates and countries of origin.

China Markings
European china markings that include the pattern generally date from after 1810, according to My Granny's Attic Antiques website. Pieces marked with the words "Trade Mark" date from 1862, when manufacturers were required to add the words. After 1891, manufacturers had to include the country of origin on all imports to the United States, so a piece marked with the name of a European country was made after that date. English pieces made after 1921 generally say "Made in England." Pieces identified as "English bone china" or simply "bone china" usually were made in the 20th century. Stamps in colors other than blue generally were produced after 1850; stamps containing the word "Limited" or abbreviations such as "Ltd" were made after 1861. Kitemarks, which contain different designations within a kite-like design, were used between 1842 to 1883.

Silver Markings
Silver makers stamp their pieces not only with marks denoting the maker and year the piece was made but also with a stamp ensuring the purity of the silver. Sterling silver is stamped with the image of a lion, which indicates that the piece contains 925 parts silver to 75 parts copper for every 1,000 parts sterling silver. Between the 16th and 19th century, Germany and nearby countries used a different weight and measurement, the Lothige or Loth, so numbers representing sterling may differ on these pieces. Silver also contained duty marks to show that the duty tax for export was paid. Great Britain designated the year of manufacture by letters from A to Z that also differed by font and size.

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