Essential Boat Cleaning Products For A Pristine Boat

If you've ever had the pleasure of going to a boat show, you'd know the variety of boats, accessories, and boat cleaning products you can find. When people boating think of buying a boat, they most likely think about cutting through waves and escaping their worries on a secluded island. It's an appealing fantasy and one that is boating certainly possible to live out with a boat. But these same people probably don't consider the maintenance that comes with a boat. Sure, you're cruising through water but that doesn't mean you don't need to clean it. Your hull, deck, seats, and other parts of your boat need regular attention if you want to keep it in good condition.

The ocean can be brutal. If you're not careful, it will deteriorate parts of your boat and you won't be living out your dreams for much longer if you don't maintain your boat. Luckily, there are boat cleaning products that can help preserve your dream. But you need to be careful about the products you use. Your boat might seem like a sturdy vessel, but with constant exposure to the sun and harsh conditions in the ocean, it needs all the care it can get. This means getting boat cleaning products that keep your boat looking pristine. It wouldn't hurt getting some that don't require too much work either, would it? Before we get too carried away, let's see the essential boat cleaning products you'll need for a sleek and clean boat.

When it comes to the essentials, there are a few that you should always carry with you on your boat. If you plan on fishing a lot, get a fish box deodorizer. Unless you don't plan on having passengers that don't mind a fishy smell, this is one of those necessary items you need. A deck cleaner keeps dirt and stains from becoming a permanent part of your boat. Of course, you want your deck to look its best for you and your passengers. Keep your deck pristine with a non-toxic formula and a scrub brush so you can really get those stains out.

If you really want to keep your boat looking great all the time, you really need two boat cleaning products: a boat hull cleaner and a boat seat cleaner.

Essential #1: A Boat Hull Cleaner
The first thing others will see is your hull. That's why it's important to invest in a boat hull cleaner. There's no way to prevent your hull from getting dirty or from getting covered with algae and scum lines. Instead of keeping your boat docked and sitting pretty, use a boat hull cleaner that easily gets rid of the rust and fish blood after a long day. Regardless of your surface, you can find a boat hull cleaner that instantly cleans fiberglass, metal, and gelcoat surface. Aesthetics aren't the only reason to get a boat hull cleaner. Regular maintenance of your hull reduces drag and helps you navigate the water more efficiently.

You can find a boat hull cleaner that is safe to use and won't require too much work on your end. We know that the last thing you want to do when you dock after a long day is clean your boat, but it's something you just have to do. Make it bearable with high quality products.

Essential #2: A Boat Seat Cleaner
Don't wait until you're out in the water to notice your dirty seats. If you have passengers with you, you want them to be comfortable and enjoy the ride. Finding droppings or residue from your last fishing trip won't be appealing. Even worse, not keeping your boat seat cleaner can eventually wear out your seats. A boat vinyl cleaner for your seats can keep them clear and ready for your next ride. In addition to that, the right kind of boat seat cleaner can prevent the inner foam of your seats from deteriorating and unsightly cracking.

Once you're making your way out onto the water, you and your passengers want to have a great time. Cracked or stained seats can affect the experience. So, get a boat vinyl seat cleaner to make your adventure memorable for all the right reasons.

Don't Wait To Get Marine Cleaning Products
Now that you know the importance of marine cleaning products and the essentials for a pristine boat, it's time to act! Don't have your go-to products yet? There's no better time than now! With a variety of dedicated brands offering their marine cleaning products, there's no doubt that you'll find everything you need.

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Essential Boat Cleaning Products For A Pristine Vessel

If you've ever had the pleasure of going to a boat show, you'd know the variety of boats, accessories, and boat cleaning products you can find. When people boating think of buying a boat, they most likely think about cutting through waves and escaping their worries on a secluded island. It's an appealing fantasy and one that is boating certainly possible to live out with a boat. But these same people probably don't consider the maintenance that comes with a boat. Sure, you're cruising through water but that doesn't mean you don't need to clean it. Your hull, deck, seats, and other parts of your boat need regular attention if you want to keep it in good condition.

The ocean can be brutal. If you're not careful, it will deteriorate parts of your boat and you won't be living out your dreams for much longer if you don't maintain your boat. Luckily, there are boat cleaning products that can help preserve your dream. But you need to be careful about the products you use. Your boat might seem like a sturdy vessel, but with constant exposure to the sun and harsh conditions in the ocean, it needs all the care it can get. This means getting boat cleaning products that keep your boat looking pristine. It wouldn't hurt getting some that don't require too much work either, would it? Before we get too carried away, let's see the essential boat cleaning products you'll need for a sleek and clean boat.

When it comes to the essentials, there are a few that you should always carry with you on your boat. If you plan on fishing a lot, get a fish box deodorizer. Unless you don't plan on having passengers that don't mind a fishy smell, this is one of those necessary items you need. A deck cleaner keeps dirt and stains from becoming a permanent part of your boat. Of course, you want your deck to look its best for you and your passengers. Keep your deck pristine with a non-toxic formula and a scrub brush so you can really get those stains out.

If you really want to keep your boat looking great all the time, you really need two boat cleaning products: a boat hull cleaner and a boat seat cleaner.

Essential #1: A Boat Hull Cleaner
The first thing others will see is your hull. That's why it's important to invest in a boat hull cleaner. There's no way to prevent your hull from getting dirty or from getting covered with algae and scum lines. Instead of keeping your boat docked and sitting pretty, use a boat hull cleaner that easily gets rid of the rust and fish blood after a long day. Regardless of your surface, you can find a boat hull cleaner that instantly cleans fiberglass, metal, and gelcoat surface. Aesthetics aren't the only reason to get a boat hull cleaner. Regular maintenance of your hull reduces drag and helps you navigate the water more efficiently.

You can find a boat hull cleaner that is safe to use and won't require too much work on your end. We know that the last thing you want to do when you dock after a long day is clean your boat, but it's something you just have to do. Make it bearable with high quality products.

Essential #2: A Boat Seat Cleaner
Don't wait until you're out in the water to notice your dirty seats. If you have passengers with you, you want them to be comfortable and enjoy the ride. Finding droppings or residue from your last fishing trip won't be appealing. Even worse, not keeping your boat seat cleaner can eventually wear out your seats. A boat vinyl cleaner for your seats can keep them clear and ready for your next ride. In addition to that, the right kind of boat seat cleaner can prevent the inner foam of your seats from deteriorating and unsightly cracking.

Once you're making your way out onto the water, you and your passengers want to have a great time. Cracked or stained seats can affect the experience. So, get a boat vinyl seat cleaner to make your adventure memorable for all the right reasons.

Don't Wait To Get Marine Cleaning Products
Now that you know the importance of marine cleaning products and the essentials for a pristine boat, it's time to act! Don't have your go-to products yet? There's no better time than now! With a variety of dedicated brands offering their marine cleaning products, there's no doubt that you'll find everything you need.

Read more »

How to Repair Lower Shifter on Boat

When the gear shift on a Mercury outboard engine begins to feel stiffer than normal, the engine may have a bent lower shift rod. If you need to repair the lower shifter on your Mercury outboard, you can purchase a kit with all of the parts required to make the repair. If you are a boater with extensive experience with outboard care and repair, this kit, some marine grease and a few tools will allow you to complete the project with little trouble.

Coat the shift rod guide, three new O-rings and the shift rod seal from the shift rod kit with waterproof marine grease. Install the shift rod guide assembly in the shift rod housing, inside the engine's exhaust tunnel. Install the smallest washer and seal from the shift rod kit into the shift rod.

Smear a light coating of marine grease on the cover O-ring for the gear case top cover. Set the cover in place. Insert the shift rod downward, through the top of the cover. Fit the large washer and the shift rod pin from the shift rod kit onto the shift rod.

Secure the shift rod spring and collar on the other end of the shift rod with the snap-ring from the kit, using snap-ring pliers. Line up the shift rod with the shift rod detent cam. The detent cam is an oblong plate with a spring and a ball at its center, located at the bottom of the shift rod housing. It creates the feeling of a "bump" as you pass between gears when operating the boat. The cam must face the rear of the gear case. Install the cam, using the pin from the shift rod kit.

Attach the magnet from the shift repair kit to the shift rod so the magnet is to the back of the gear case when installed. Position the shift detent plate, spring and ball into the shift detent bore of the gear case. Install the shift rod assembly so the shift cam groove faces aft. Move the cam to the "Neutral" position.

Dab thread locker onto the shift rod cover bolt threads and the dowel pin of the shift rod cover. Push the dowel pin into place on the cover and install the cover on the gear case. Thread the bolts into the bores on the gear case by hand. Tighten them to 45 inch-pounds of torque with a torque driver.

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Changing Water Pump on OMC Sterndrive

The maintenance specifications for your motor and OMC sterndrive are specific: Check the impeller of your sterndrive's water pump yearly, or after every 200 hours of operation. Since you have to disassemble the sterndrive and water pump to inspect the impeller, you might as well change the pump while you have the sterndrive apart. Changing the pump is a one-person job. Removing the sterndrive is less uncomfortable -- because of the its weight -- when done by two people.

Wrap a blanket around the jaws of a bench vise, to serve as a temporary stand for the sterndrive, while you change the water pump. Open the vise to its fullest extent, until you set the drive in place on the bench.

Shift the motor into "Forward." Remove the decorative plastic caps. Remove the lock nuts with a 5/8-inch socket.

Remove the two small washers, the four rubber bushings, the two large washers and the anchor pin from the aft end of the the hydraulic trim cylinders. Pull the piston end of the cylinder from the lugs on the sterndrive, by hand.

Remove the six lock nuts and washers that secure the sterndrive to the bell housing, using a 7/8-inch socket. Pull the sterndrive straight away from the bell housing. Move the sternddrive to the bench vise -- an assistant's help is recommended during the transfer -- and tighten the vice only enough to hold the sterndrive upright.

Loosen the trim tab screw, using a screwdriver, and remove the trim tab from the drive. Remove the Allan screw found under the tab. Remove the two nuts beneath the drive's ventilation plate with a 5/8-inch socket.

Remove the two nuts on each side of the drive that hold the upper and lower housings of the drive together. Lift the upper housing away from the lower housing.

Remove the pump housing nuts from the pump housing with a 1/4-inch socket. Lift the housing from the shaft. Remove the impeller, key and wear plate from the shaft. Slide two slotted screwdrivers under the sides of the water pump base. Pry straight up to remove the base.

Slide a new shaft seal down the driveshaft and press it into the large hole in the top of the gear case. Spread a thin layer of gasket sealant on the bottom of the the new water pump base plate, from the pump repair kit, and slide the plate down the driveshaft so the sealant contacts the top of the gear case.

Grease the center hole and the outer edges of the fins of the impeller with waterproof marine grease. Slide the wear plate down the shaft, aligning the holes on its corners with the bores for the pump housing bolts. Slide the impeller down the driveshaft and onto the wear plate.

Dab your finger into gasket sealer and run it around the bottom edge of the pump housing. Press the second driveshaft seal into the larger of the two bores on the top of the pump housing. Squirt a small amount of white marine grease into the center of the seal to help you ease the housing and seal down the driveshaft.

Place a bit -- just a thin smear -- of thread locker on the threads of the pump housing bolts. Push them down through the bores at the corners of the pump housing and into the top of the gear case. Tighten them as much as possible with your fingers, then tighten them to 55 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Reinstalling the Sterndrive
Set the upper sterndrive housing onto the lower stern drive housing. Replace the two lock nuts on each side of the drive that secure the upper housing to the lower housing.

Replace the Allan screw beneath the ventilation plate and replace the trim tab screw. Install the trim tab in its location below the ventilation plate and secure with the trim tab screw.

Lift the reassembled stern drive from its temporary work stand -- the assistance of a friend is highly recommended -- and push it straight back into the bell housing.

Place the six mounting washers on the six studs around the bell housing and thread the lock nuts back into place around the gear case.

Pull the piston-end of the hydraulic trim cylinders onto their lugs on the sterndrive. Replace the anchor pin in the lug, push the two large washers into place along with the four rubber bushings, the two small washers, the lock nuts and plastic trim caps.

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How to Build Aluminum-Hull Boats

Aluminum has a number of traits that make it suitable for marine applications such as boat hulls for boating. Aluminum is a relatively strong metal, yet the material has some flexibility -- so a bump doesn't turn into a critical failure of hull integrity; instead, the metal just bends or dents. Unlike fiberglass, another common boat hull material, aluminum hulls don't require chemicals in their production; unlike most steel, certain aluminum stock is not subject moisture corrosion. Aluminum lasts far longer in water than wood does; it won't rot or crack like wood. An aluminum hull does require welding skill to fabricate. As a result, such projects involve a higher skill level than basic tool work.

How to Build Aluminum-Hull Boats

Design the shape of the hull on paper with a pencil. Map out the size of a boat that you can
reasonably build yourself within your own property or workspace. Start with a small boat, 4 feet wide by 12 feet long or thereabouts, if you're building your first boat. Plan on renting out a large workspace for boat sizes reaching 20 feet to 60 feet in length if you're building a sailboat or similar. Draw out the internal frame first. Work with a boat planner to make sure your dimensions are drawn correctly for the size of boat you want to build. Add the hull body section by section after you've completed your hull drawing. Reshape and edit the drawing to scale so you can determine sizing later on when implementing the plan.

Restrict your aluminum materials to 5000- or 6000-series aluminum to prevention corrosion in marine water. Cut the various aluminum metal pieces needed for framing using a metal grinder and cutting tools. Place the material in your workspace where you can easily reach and use it so your project doesn't slow down while you wait for supplies.

Obtain a stick welder tool. Wear a darkened glass helmet to protect your eyes from the welding spark. Wear a thick welding coat and gloves to prevent ultraviolet radiation exposure from the welding. Weld the boat frame together consistent with your design.

Begin to attach the aluminum plates to the frame, section by section. Work the welding from the bottom to the top of the hull frame, attaching each piece. Weld each section both to the frame and to each other, sealing each gap with a weld seam. Take your time in the process to do it correctly the first time.

Finish the hull and double-check that every seam is completely sealed. Go back and fix any errors. Use a light behind the surface of the hull to spot any pin-size holes you may have missed in the process.

Paint the finished hull entirely with a paint that has waterproof qualities and adheres to aluminum specifically. Use an epoxy paint if possible. Fill in every gap with the paint to prevent water intrusion. Apply a top coat afterward of whatever paint you prefer, including color, as long as it adheres to the dry epoxy layer.

Install corrosion deterrents by welding or bolting on zinc anodes in general locations around the finished hull to draw corrosion from stray electrical currents. Place two in the front of the hull, two in the rear, and one on each side. Move these anodes or add more later as necessary to capture any remaining currents causing corrosion through the hull.

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Installing Outboard Motor Head Gaskets

Exhaust smoke leaking from your outboard's top cowling is never a good sign. It usually means that you need to install a new head gasket on your outboard motor for boating to prevent exhaust gases from escaping from between the cylinder block and the powerhead block. The procedure is straightforward and, as long as the gasket is sealed and the cylinder block is properly tightened to the correct torque, it should alleviate the problem.


Remove the cylinder block bolts with an adjustable wrench. Lift the cylinder block from the powerhead. Remove any gasket sealing compound residue from the surface of the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and powerhead block, using a plastic scraper.

Spread a thin layer of gasket sealing compound on the top and bottom sides of the new cylinder block gasket and position the gasket on the cylinder block, using the alignment pins on the cylinder block to position the gasket.

Apply a very light coat of clean engine oil to the threads of the cylinder block bolts. Use the alignment pins on the cylinder block to position the cylinder block on the powerhead block.

Thread the cylinder block bolts into their bores and tighten them with your fingers. Tighten the upper bolt on the port side of the block to 9 foot-pounds. Use a crossing pattern to tighten all of the cylinder block bolts to 9-foot pounds, ending at the upper, starboard bolt. Continue to tighten the cylinder block bolts until the torque for all bolts is 19 foot-pounds.

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Best Ways to Raise Transom on Aluminum Boat

There's no need to weld additions to your aluminum boat's transom to increase its height for boating. One non-invasive way of raising the transom on an aluminum boat is to create a "lift" — a bracket that fits over the transom — to increase the motor's height. The completed bracket forms a channel, and the top of the channel holds the top of the outboard bracket a few inches above the transom of the boat.

Weld the shorter edge of a 1-by-2-foot-by-3/4-inch aluminum plate to the side of a piece of 2-by-2 inch square aluminum tubing, 1 foot long. The aluminum plate must be parallel to and even with the long edge of the aluminum tubing. Use a MIG welding machine. Allow the weld to cool.

Turn the aluminum plate and tube over, so the aluminum plate is flat on the welding table. Weld the short edge of a second piece of 1-by-2-foot-by-3/4-inch aluminum plate to the side 2-inch-square aluminum tubing, so the plates form a "U" shaped channel, 2 feet deep. The aluminum plate must parallel to and even with the long edge of the aluminum tubing. Allow the welds to cool thoroughly.

Slide the aluminum plate/square tube bracket into the mounting bracket of your outboard, with the 2-inch square tube at the top. Mark the location of the mounting brackets holes onto the aluminum plate, using a china marker.

Place a 2-inch thick block of wood between the two aluminum plates. Drill four holes through both plates and the wood block, using a 1-inch bit, at the location marked for the motor mounting holes.

Place the channel of the aluminum bracket over the transom at the motor mount location. Position the motor on the aluminum bracket. Install flat washers on the 1-inch outboard mounting bolts.

Push the 1-inch bolts through the mounting holes on the outboard mounting bracket, the aluminum bracket and the transom. Install lock washers on the mounting bolts. Thread nuts onto the mounting bolts and tighten to 55 foot-pounds.

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The Homemade Jet Ski Docks

Personal water craft (PWC), also known as jet skis, provide water lovers with the excitement of skiing down a snow-covered mountain or on water on a hot summer day. The vehicles transport easily and are light enough to load quickly into and out of the water. Because PWC are much lighter than boats, owners prefer to park them out of the water, rather than mooring them to the side of a traditional dock. Many docking systems are available for those who want to modify their existing docks to accommodate a PWC.

The Basic Dock
PWC docking systems mount to any type of existing dock. Whether the existing dock floats or is anchored into the lake bed, PWC docking and lift solutions adapt easily to the fixed dock. Some of the simplest PWC docks are made from polyvinyl buoys. Other systems provide PWC owners with smaller versions of a traditional boat lift.

Drive-on Dock
A PWC drive-on dock resembles a floating mattress, composed of individual floating cells. Since the PWC don't have propellers or a keel, the PWC drives directly up onto a floating platform. The platform lifts the PWC out of the water and offers the driver a small walkway on either side of the craft. Once the watercraft is on the dock, owners tie it off with traditional mooring lines.

PWC Lifts
Dockside boat lifts are a standard mooring option for small to medium sized power boats. The boat drives into the center of the underwater lift carriage. Once the passengers debark, the entire boat is lifted from the water with a pulley and harness system. This type of lift is also available for PWC and is often used in combination with the drive-on dock. The drive-on dock is used during the day. Then at the end of the day, or when inclement weather threatens, the PWC is lifted from the water and secured via a PWC lift system.

Dock Add-ons
Addons for PWC homemade docks are available to make sure that the craft enters and leaves the water safely. A small add-on lift looks like the PWC carriage on a mobile trailer. The lift has two aluminum arms that extend into the water. The PWC drives over the lift arms and the owner winches the craft out of the water. Other add-ons include mooring lines and heavy duty cleats that bolt to the side of the dock. Even when owners use a simple drive-on dock, the PWC should be tied off to protect the PWC, and for the safety of those using the dock.

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Rebuilding Force Outboard BoatCarburetor

Force outboard boating motors were initially manufactured in the late 1980s when U.S. Marine bought out the Chrysler outboard manufacturing plant in Wisconsin. Force outboards were also the stock engine for a while in Bayliner boats. Changing out the lower gear oil and replacing the water pump is part of routine outboard maintenance. However, you may also have to rebuild the carburetor at some point. Buy carburetor rebuild kits at marine dealerships.

Unlatch and open the Force outboard's engine cover. Set the cover aside.

Remove all hoses attached to the carburetor using a screwdriver, and pull the throttle linkage from the control arm of the Force carburetor with a pair of pliers.

Remove the bolts holding the carburetor in place using an open-end wrench. Lift the carburetor from the engine, and place it on a workbench.

Hold the Force carburetor over a bucket while removing the low-speed needle with a screwdriver. Remove the float bowl screw, and allow the float bowl to drain out.

Scrape off the old float bowl gasket with a putty knife, and replace it with a new one from a carburetor rebuild kit.

Remove the jet screws, the float and the valve. Clean all these parts individually. Replace any parts that or corroded or filthy with parts from the carburetor kit. Spray all the ports and jets of the carburetor with spray carburetor cleaner, and allow at least an hour for it all to dry.

Screw the carburetor jets all back in, and reassemble the float, valve, float bowl and low-speed needle.

Set the carburetor back inside the Force engine compartment, and slide the retaining bolts through the carburetor. Tighten them with your open-end wrench.

Attach the hoses and the carburetor linkage, then replace the engine cover.

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How to Rebuild Boat Outboard Starters

The electric motor that starts your outboard may require, at some point, an overhaul. While, much of the process of rebuilding a starter motor is a cleaning process, most of the work involves ensuring the electrical windings, brushes and commutator are in good working order. With a multimeter, a few tools and cleaners, both electrical and mechanical, you can effectively give your outboard a new starter. If you must replace parts, though, consider the cost of the parts against the cost of a new starter motor.

Remove the four bolts securing the starter housing and armature face, using a 1/4-inch open-end wrench. Remove the starter housing. Inspect the permanent magnets in the starter housing for damage, debris or corrosion. Clean, as necessary. A damaged magnet requires starter housing replacement. Compare the brush springs for color and length. Replace the springs if they are either stretched or have a bluish color.

Wrap the jaws of a vise in a dish cloth. Secure the armature in the vise, with the jaws just tight enough to keep the armature from moving. Measure the depth of each mica undercut on the commutator, using a micrometer. Each undercut must be more than 0.008 inches. If not, replace the commutator.

Inspect the pinion drive for damaged teeth. Replace, if necessary. Visually inspect the splines of the armature shaft for damage. Spin the pinion drive onto and off the splines, and replace if the pinion drives does not move easily.

Polish the commutator surface, using 300-grit emery cloth. Place one probe of a multimeter on the commutator shaft and one on the core to check for continuity, indicating a short. Move the probes between the segments, where continuity should exist. If it does not, open circuits exist. If either a short or open exist, replace the commutator.

Place one multimeter probe on the positive side of the brush plate ground and one on the brush plate. Continuity must exist. If it does not, replace both the brush plate grounds. Blow debris from the armature and commutator cover using canned, compressed air.

Clean all of the components, except the brush plate and brushes, using a mild solvent such as acetone. Clean the brush plate and brushes with electrical contact cleaner.

Reassemble the overhauled starter.

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Things to Know About V-Berth Boat Sheets

V-berths are sleeping areas in the front sides of a boat, so called because the prow comes together in the shape of a "V." They are often used for storing things like extra sails instead of sleeping. V-berth sheets are bedsheets used in these forward berths.

V-Berth Accommodations
Not everyone finds sleeping in a V-berth comfortable. One boating magazine writer maintained they were only for "short people or people who don't mind sharing athlete's feet," adding that two kids put in a V-berth would soon be fighting with each other. Certainly the smaller and narrower the boat, the less comfortable the berth is likely to be, particularly on sailboats with their narrower beams. However, larger boats will offer more comfortable V-berths. Designs for the berths are many and varied and so are the mattresses that are meant for them, which may be one-piece or two-, and sometimes feature an insert in the bottom of the V. Boaters can order custom sheets for their V-berths; use sheets that adjust to fit many sizes of V-berths; make their own custom V-berth sheets; or just use regular sheets by tucking in the ends as needed to cover the mattress.

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Best Tips to Extend Fiberglass Boats

Extending a fiberglass-constructed boat involves a major project and skill level because it requires the builder to essentially cut into and partially destroy the original hull of the boat. To be sure that the modified boat hull won’t leak at the seams, the new extension must be molded with the existing hull to create a new, unified hull and structure. This requires breaking the old end of the boat down to its core and essentially rebuilding it.

Remove and any all equipment attached to the end of the boat that will be extended, including the outboard engine and propeller assembly. Use scrapers and basic garage tools to remove any attachments and surface coverings adhered to the old boat end.

Plan out with pen and paper how the boat end will be extended. Base the extension measurements on the original boat design and structure. Keep the modifications within scope of the general boat shape and design; i.e., don’t build a new aft section three times wider than the original boat body.

Have a boat designer look over your work if possible to point out necessary corrections or issues you may have overlooked.

Cut into the old boat fiberglass of the section to be extended with a grinder or saws-all tool. Strip out and remove all of the old internal and external fiberglass. Cut out and pry the pieces until you are left with just the bare hull frame.

Put on a face mask to protect your lungs. Sand and grind the remaining surface of nearby fiberglass hull not be removed so the new layer will have something to bond with when joined with the old material.

Remove the old hull frame wood and beams if they cannot be reused. Prime the new marine plywood and wood beams completely with epoxy liquid so that the fiberglass can adhere to the new parts when applied.

Fill in and repair the frame with the extended design by adding framing and plywood as necessary to create the new, modified frame. Apply putty into gaps where holes or cracks exist. Continue patching until you have a complete, continuous hull surface of plywood or putty seams.

Put on plastic gloves. Mix fiberglass resin and hardener in a bucket with a mixing stick. Paint fiberglass resin on the wood beams and plywood surface one section at a time.

Fiberglass Application
Cut sections of fiberglass cloth with scissors. Begin to add fiberglass cloth, rolling and pressing the cloth into the first layer of resin as you work. Continue the first layer until a section is finished.

Paint more resin over the first cloth layer and apply a second cloth layer. Continue this process until at least three or four layers are applied. Cover the last layer with more resin. Continue section by section until the boat is surfaced with fiberglass that now adheres to the old fiberglass where the initial cut was made.

Allow the first layer to harden and cure. Go back and apply additional layers of cloth and resin the next day until your hull and internal surface of the boat are covered with enough fiberglass to meet your design needs.

Allow the second layer of fiberglass to dry and harden. Spread out your layers so they overlap old fiberglass surfaces. Avoid any clear seams or breaks from old to new fiberglass; these will lead to immediate cracks.

Drill out your necessary holes and cavities in the new hull for your engine equipment, pumps and propeller if it applies. Use a power drill and boring bits to make the holes. Seal the edges of these holes so that when the equipment is installed the contact with the hull is water-tight.

Begin sanding and grinding the surface area and edges of the new fiberglass. Smooth out all edges and trim so that the finished fiberglass transitions to the old fiberglass without delineation.

Apply epoxy on any dips, gaps or holes. Paint the final hull-surface with waterproof boat hull paint and a roller brush.

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Tips to Winterize Yamaha Wave Runner

The Yamaha FZS Waverunner, like most boats, should go into storage over the winter season. Before committing the Waverunner to its winter home, however, it must be prepared for "extended storage," as it is referred to in the Yamaha service manual. Winterizing the FZS has parallels to winterizing any other boat, but the process is far less complicated.

Bring the Waverunner ashore and, before beginning the winterization process, ensure the vessel is level, whether it is on the trailer or on the ground. Lift the seat latch beneath the rear edge of the rear seat. Remove the rear seat and under-seat storage compartment. Lift the latch at the rear of the front seat, and pull up on the rear of the front seat. Locate the motor's flushing hose connection. Connect a garden hose to a hose bib and turn the water hose on.

Connect the metal clip of the engine shut-off lanyard to the engine emergency shut-off switch on the left steering handle. Start the engine and run it until water comes out of the jet nozzle. When water comes from the nozzle, run the engine for an additional 3 minutes. Press the engine "Stop" button to shut the motor down. Remove the lanyard clip from the emergency shut-off switch.

Take the air cover and filter element off the engine. Spray fogging oil into each of the engine’s four air intakes for a minimum of 3 seconds per intake. Install a new filter element in the air filter case. Install the filter case cover.

Turn on the garden hose. Re-connect the emergency shut-off lanyard clip, start the motor and run the motor at idle for at least 5 seconds. Push the "Stop" button and remove the lanyard clip from the emergency shut-off switch.

Lubricate the ends of the steering and throttle cables with heavy waterproof grease. Remove the battery cables, taking the negative cable off first. Remove the battery from the Waverunner. Store the battery in a secure, cool, dry place.

Wash the Waverunner with mild soap and water. Spray the exterior of the engine with a silicone spray lubricant. Wax the hull with automotive paste wax and apply a vinyl protectant spray to the seats and the vinyl components on the exterior of the Waverunner. Move the Waverunner to its storage location. If you store the Waverunner outside, put its winter storage cover over it. Secure the cover with bungee cords.

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The DIY Houseboat Construction

Building a houseboat involves a significant and complex set of tasks. Not only are you constructing the basics of a boat, but you're also building living quarters on top of that boat hull. The structure design as well as materials used cause significant impacts to the comfort and performance of the houseboat on water. However, with time and patience, it is possible to do this project yourself.

Design the size and scope of the houseboat project on paper with a pen. Draw the design to scale, using the concept of an outboard engine to propel the houseboat on the water. Review your dimensions and design with a boat designer. Double-check that you've addressed all the critical points that the boat designer points out may need to be adjusted.

Purchase a used, broad boat hull and remove the upper structure. Break down the cabin, mast, and general upper deck with a sledgehammer and saws. Clear the upper structure completely until down to the edges of the hull itself.

Use a hammer, nails and a power saw to craft a flat floor onto the boat hull. Stabilize this floor into the boat hull use wood beams and metal brackets. Treat this wood with water-proofing sealant once it is installed into the boat hull, using a paint brush to apply the sealant.

Build the house boat frame with aluminum or wood beams. Craft the walls on each side of the boat, with sufficient cross-frame beams to allow square cavities for windows and doors. Install plywood on the sides to create the internal wall surface of the structure.

Staple fiberglass insulation into the walls against the plywood and between the wood beams of the structure. Seal this up with a hammer, drywall, and drywall nails, cutting the drywall to size as necessary with a saw. Nail siding to the outside of the walls to establish a external weather-proofed surface.

Use a hammer, nails, and brackets to construct the roofing structure. Build the roof frame at an angle to assist rainwater draining off the top of the houseboat. Attach plywood to the roof frame to form the base surface. Nail lightweight roof shingles to the plywood in an overlapping pattern so the water doesn't penetrate between.

Install fiberglass insulation into the internal side of the roof, stapling it to the roof plywood inside. Seal up the roof area on the inside with drywall.

Use a power drill to make necessary holes and cavities for wiring and plumbing. Install pre-fabricated windows and a pre-hung door into the cavities you previously designed. Nail these components into place into the houseboat structure. Seal the edges with water-proof caulking.

Install an outboard engine onto the back of the boat hull with sufficient power to push the houseboat size and weight. Bolt it to the back of the hull with a drill, socket wrench, and nuts and bolts hardware. Build out the internal furniture and equipment of the houseboat as desired to finish the structure.

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The DIY Fiberglass Pontoon

Pontoon boats have been around for decades. The design of these vessels allows for a large and bulky boat structure to be safely and easily supported by floating cylinders called pontoons. These boats have become very popular with families and fishermen alike because of their flat, walk-about decks and shaded canopies. Pontoon boats have either aluminum or fiberglass pontoons. While aluminum pontoons are air-filled, fiberglass pontoons are foam-filled. With the recent advent of creative material handling, the DIY boat builder can now produce safe, hand-laid fiberglass pontoons.

Build a 3-foot-by-20-foot platform from 3/4-inch plywood and 2-inch-by-4-inch construction lumber using a tape measure and chalk line. Cut the platform with a circular saw and place it over three sawhorses. It will serve as both the work surface and the pattern holder of the pontoon design.

From a point 12 inches from one end of the work surface, mark a spot 9 inches in from the edge and another identical spot on the other edge. This distance defines the width (18 inches) of the pontoon. Draw straight lines back from these points 18 feet in length, defining the length of the pontoon. Connect the front (bow) and back (transom) ends with squared lines.

Use 3/4-inch plywood for the bottom (keel) and top (deck) and 1/2-inch plywood for the sides (hull). Measure 2 squared 18-inch-by-8-foot lengths of 3/4-inch plywood for the keel. Rip them with a circular saw. Lay them end to end -- beginning at the transom and going forward. (Note: this will leave a 2-foot space at the bow, so the deck will extend over the keel, producing a prow on the pontoon.) Measure and cut an 18-inch-by-12-inch piece of 3/4-inch plywood. Drill and screw it over the seam of the two keel pieces to attach them, forming the keel.

Measure and cut 4 12-inch-by-8-foot lengths of 1/2-inch plywood. Connect these hull pieces at right angles to the keel, drilling 1/4-inch holes and driving 2-inch galvanized wood screws. The screws should be every 12 inches and 3/8-inch from the edge of the keel. Cut the 18-inch-by-12-inch transom and attach it to the hull pieces with 2-inch screws.

Cut two 12-inch-by-24-inch-by-24 1/2-inch pieces of 1/2-inch plywood to form the triangular pieces of the prow hull. Measure and cut a 24 1/2-inch-by-12-inch piece of 1/2-inch plywood for the prow base. Screw the prow-hull and prow-base pieces together. Carefully invert the pontoon and attach the three-piece prow to the hull with 1-inch screws and scrap plywood on the inside of the hull. (Note that the add-on scrap pieces of plywood are necessary because there is no deck to attach them to at this point.)

Measure and cut two 2-inch-by-12-inch-by-12-inch pieces of common lumber. They form the cross-members that span the sides of the hull. Place them at 64 inches and 128 inches down from the transom. Drill and drive 2-inch galvanized screws. Mark the outside of the hull at the center point of both cross-members.

Mix one gallon of epoxy putty for sealing joints inside the pontoon hull. Mix the epoxy resin and hardener (2:1 ratio) in a wooden or metal bucket. Add equal parts of fairing powder and colloidal silica until it produces a peanut butter-like putty. Use a paint stirrer or epoxy stirrer to smooth the putty into joints and crevices inside the hull.

Measure and cut 18-inch-by-12-inch lengths of 3/4-inch plywood to form the deck. Top drill and screw the deck to the hull with 2-inch screws. Drill five equidistant 2-inch holes down the center line of the deck, using a 4-inch hole-saw bit. Use a paintbrush to apply epoxy full strength to all seams on the pontoon. Allow the epoxy to dry for 2 hours and then cover all the seams and joint edges with 7.6-cm-by-3-inch fiberglass tape.

Fill and Glass the Pontoon
Cover the deck with a drop cloth that leaves a 1-foot gap down the deck for hull protection. Use a plastic bucket to mix 10 gallons of 4-pound/cf density, closed-cell polyurethane foam -- in equal parts A and B. Mix 2 gallons at a time. Pour the mixed foam liquid into the deck holes -- two gallons into each hole, one at at time. Continue to fill the holes until expanded foam leaks out of the holes. Scrape and wipe between pourings to keep the deck clean. Allow the foam to cure overnight. Cut five 2-inch pieces of wood dowel. Glue them into the five foam holes with construction glue and sand them flat.

Use a plastic mesh scrubber and water to remove the amine blush (a waxy byproduct of epoxy resin) from all taped seams. Sand the taped seams with 80-grit sandpaper. Invert the pontoon deck side down.

Mix 2 gallons of epoxy resin and hardener (2:1 ratio). Use a fiberglass roller to roll on three coats of epoxy resin mixture over the entire hull, prow and transom. Cure the resin for 24 hours.

Use lacquer thinner and a cloth to clean the epoxy surface. Mix more epoxy resin/hardener and use a roller to apply a thick coat to the entire hull, prow and transom. Drape the fiberglass fabric over the hull with the weave parallel to the keel. Use another clean roller to fix the fabric to the wet surface. After setting for three hours, trim the excess fiberglass cloth and paintbrush the edges and seams with more epoxy resin mixture. Repeat the scrub-wet-drape-roll-trim-edge process two more times over 48 hours.

Invert the pontoon and repeat the glassing process on the deck.

Sand the entire pontoon and -- if desired -- apply marine-grade paint in two coats.

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How to Adjust Valves in a 3208 CAT

Caterpillar, Inc., is currently the largest manufacturer of construction and mining equipment, industrial gas turbines and diesel and natural gas engines in the world. Among the models of diesel engines they offer is the 3208, a variety especially designed to be incorporated with marine vehicles. Like all engines, it requires regular maintenance, including cleaning and adjustment of the valves, in order to maintain peak efficiency over the course of its lifetime.

Clean around the valve with a clean cloth.

Unscrew the screws and remove the washers that are holding the valve cover in place.

Remove the valve cover and the spring from the valve's housing. Remove the diaphragm assembly, inner sleeve and gasket from the housing and disassemble the diaphragm assembly.

Clean all of the parts of the valve thoroughly, and inspect each one for wear or damage.
Replace any part that needs it.

Reassemble the diaphragm assembly, coating both sides of the diaphragm with gasket cement in order to prevent cracking. Install the diaphragm with the face marked “piston face” facing the piston.

Coat the gasket with gasket cement and install it against the rear face of the inner sleeve.

Reinsert the completed diaphragm assembly in the valve housing.

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Install the spring and valve cover. Put the screws and washers that hold the cover back into place to complete your valve adjustment.

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How to Fix Pull Cord on Boat Motors

The hand recoil starter on a 4-horsepower Yamaha outboard motor is a self-contained spring that powers a pulley. When you pull the starter rope, it turns the pulley. As the pulley turns, it tightens the spring. When the pulley turns past a set point, the spring is released, turning the flywheel and crankshaft. As the crankshaft turns, fuel is drawn into the single cylinder and the magneto provides the electricity to fire the spark plug, starting the motor. You can replace the starter rope on your Yamaha outboard motor without taking the motor to a mechanic.

Remove the three starter retaining bolts, using a thin-walled 1/4-inch socket. Lift the hand rewind starter from the powerhead.

Unwind the rope from the starter. Untie the knot that holds the handle in place and the knot the holds the rope to the starter rope pulley. Slip the rope out of the handle. Lift the pulley out of the starter housing. Slide the handle onto the new starter rope and knot the end of the rope to hold the handle in place.

Turn the flywheel side of the pulley face-up. Knot the end of the new rope opposite the end with the handle. Place the knotted end of the new rope in the notch in the pulley. Wrap the new rope twice, clockwise, around the pulley. Set the pulley back into the starter housing so the placement tab fits into the placement slot of the starter housing.

Grasp the pulley to hold it in place. Wind the pulley counterclockwise against the starter spring's tension. Grasp the handle and pull the slack from the rope. Hold on to the handle on the rope, tightly. Slowly relax your grip on the pulley, so that the rope rewinds into the housing.

Replace the starter on top of the powerhead. Thread the retaining bolts through the starter and into the powerhead. Tighten the bolts to 70 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench.

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Repair Johnson Evenrude 9.9 Outboard Motor

Repairing a Johnson Evinrude 9.9 Outboard motor is needed to keep the motor running effectively. The water pump of the Johnson Evinrude motor should be rebuilt at least once a year, depending on how much you use the outboard motor. The Johnson Evinrude 9.9 outboard water pump is similar to most other outboard motors with the pump sitting on the top of the gear case. You can rebuild the water pump with a few common tools in about an hour or two.

Unfasten the nuts underneath the top lip of the Johnson 9.9 outboard motor lower gear case with an open-end wrench and remove the upper engine housing off the gear case. Place the gear case in a vise and unfasten the bolts on the top of the water pump with a socket wrench.

Lift the water pump housing off the top of the gear case and remove the gasket and impeller from inside the pump housing. Take the water spout off the top of the pump housing and remove the gasket and metal plate from the top of the gear case.

Remove the keyway from the top of the gear case and clean any remaining oil deposits from the top of the gear case as well as along the base of the motor shaft with a clean dry cloth. Clean the inside of the water pump housing of oil deposits with the clean dry cloth.

Apply a thin layer of marine grease on the top of the gear case as well as along the inside of the water pump housing. Place a new keyway in the top of the gear case and set a new metal plate and rubber gasket over the top of the gear case where the water pump sits.

Set the new impeller upside-down in the water pump housing and place a new rubber gasket around the bottom lip of the pump housing. Place the water pump housing assembly over the motor shaft and set the assembly on the top of the gear case.

Secure the water pump assembly to the top of the gear case with bolts and remove the gear case from the vise. Slide the upper motor housing over the top of the gear case and fasten the housing to the gear case with the nuts.

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Best Tips to Gelcoat Boat Floor

Sand and grit and dirt in the bottom of your boat can, over time, badly scratch and discolor the floor of your boat. Often you can spruce it up quickly with just a new layer of gelcoat. This won't repair major dents and chips or add much strength to the floor. The extra layer of gelcoat will also increase the weight of your boat a bit. All in all, however, gelcoating the floor of your boat is a nice, fairly easy spruce-up for an aging boat.

Clean the floor or deck of the boat. Remove any old glued on carpet, dirt or debris by sanding if necessary. Scrub the floor thoroughly clean, then wipe it down with acetone.

Rough the surface of the floor with an orbital sander and 80-grit sandpaper. This gives the gelcoat something to adhere to. Wipe the floor again with acetone and a rag and allow it to dry thoroughly. Wear gloves and eye protection at all times when handling acetone, gelcoat or catalyst.

Mix together enough gelcoat to cover a 1- or 2-square-foot area at a time. Measure the suggested amount of color tint from the color chart so that the gel will match the color of the rest of the inside of the boat hull. Add color tint drop by drop according to manufacturer's directions.

Add the MEKP catalyst according to manufacturer's instructions. Work quickly so the gelcoat doesn't set up before you get it applied to the boat. Be precise with the amount of catalyst, or the gelcoat could set too fast or too slow and spoil the finish.

Paint the gelcoat onto a selected area. Work in overlapping squares, mixing enough gelcoat for one square at a time. Watch for air bubbles in the gelcoat and pop them with a sharp instrument like a nail or a knife point. Bubbles will leave pinholes in the finish where dirt and debris can collect.

Work steadily until you finish the whole floor of the boat. Start early so you have time to finish it all in one day. As you work, the previous sections should not be hardened before you apply the gelcoat to the adjacent area. The gelcoat will harden in about four hours, but allow it to cure overnight before walking on it or buffing it.

Wipe the floor of the boat with a rag and acetone to remove any tackiness. Lightly sand the floor with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and an orbital sander. Then apply buffing compound and buff the floor to bring it to a fine shine.

Apply traction strips or carpet sections where solid footing is critical.

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Easy Reasons Seadoo Leak Water

While common for a boat to take on some water during normal use, anything excessive means you have a leak. Unfortunately, leaks occur from a variety of causes. Finding a leak is going to require fully drying out the boat and engine compartment, putting it in the water, and putting your head in the engine compartment to look for any drip or leak. The following are some common causes of a Seadoo leak.

Drive shaft
To troubleshoot the drive shaft, pull it out and examine the carbon seal and collar. If they look damaged or not quite right, then replace with new parts. If the steel c-clip is missing, the boat will leak. Inspect the inner venturi nozzle on the jet pump, if both bailer tubes are not in the nozzle or are missing, then they need replaced. You also may have to replace the seal to the drive shaft if it's damaged in any way or missing.

Coolant system
Inspect the coolant system thoroughly. Check the engine coolant fluid levels. Read your Seadoo's manual and examine any diagrams and information regarding your particular coolant system. Compare your Seadoo to the manual. Make sure everything matches. if any parts are missing or damaged, they need replaced. Damage can be caused by heavy use, defective parts, misuse, or a clog from sucking up debris in the water. Check for blockage within the tubes. Inspect the coolant pumps for holes or defects and replace if found. Any damage or separation to where the coolant lines enter the boat can also let water in. Again, you may need to inspect the Seadoo while it is in the water to find the leak.

Exhaust system
A hole in the exhaust hose, broken hose, or loose hose connection can cause a leak. A common symptom of this leak is the boat sinking towards the handle bars. The exhaust system is attached to the engine's cooling system and muffler and exits the rear underside of the Seadoo. Common causes for holes involve the Seadoo sucking up debris, such as sea-weed. Any sucked up debris can plug up the cooling system and restrict the cooling of the exhaust system. Symptoms for this include engine running at lower RPM's, or beeping sound as the engine is warning of too high a temperature. Eventually, the heat will build up and the exhaust hoses can melt and burst. Check your cooling system for any clogs. Also If someone has worked on your Seadoo, they may have made modifications or repairs improperly. Mislaid exhaust hose will eventually split, melt, or burst. Damage may also occur to the muffler. Check the muffler for holes and defects.

Bilge Drain Plug
There should be an O ring around the drain to stop leakage. The plug is located on the bilge pump which is located inside the bottom of your craft and when operating properly pumps out excess water. Inspect your manual's diagrams to make sure everything looks right with the pump, plug, and O ring. If the plug is missing, or If the O ring is broken or missing - you will need to replace these parts before continuing use of your craft.

Hull
If you have a hull leak, then your boat will take on water without the engine running. Hull leaks can be caused by impacting debris that create cracks or holes in the hull. It can also be caused by something within the Seadoo bursting or melting. Check the interior and exterior of your craft for large dents and signs of damage as this may be the source of the leak.

Water pump
Run the boat on idle and watch the water pump. You could have a broken seal or a bad hose. A damaged pump assembly can force water into the boat. If the boat only takes on water while the engine is running, then this could be your problem.

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