How to Use Canoe Boat

Canoeing is not only a fun outdoor adventure sport---it also serves as a way to maneuver through the water to reach a destination. Canoeing are widely used on rivers, ponds, lakes and mild whitewater rapid areas. Canoeing can be difficult to handle at times due to their shape, weight and balance of the canoe. Having the basic facts down before venturing out on a canoe trip will make the trip enjoyable and safe.

Check the canoe for any leaks before departing. Make sure that the paddles are not chipped or bent and that they are in good working order. Place the topographic map into clear, waterproof bag. Map out a canoe trip.

Load the canoe with supplies, if desired. An olive barrel will keep dry goods from getting wet or lost. Place coolers, olive barrels and other needed equipment in the center of the canoe between the thwarts or crossbars. Load passengers---make sure there is stability in seating. One person in the back and one in front and heavier passengers in the middle. This keeps the center of gravity in the middle of the canoe. Don't double up small children or adults into one seat.

Paddle the canoe. For two paddlers facing forward, the motion involves a down and under the water curl done consecutively with both paddlers. To move forward, paddles must go clockwise to create a forward stroke. For backward movement, counterclockwise. The person sitting in the bow of the canoe will be paddling on the left side and then opposite for the sternman. One hand will be toward the bottom of the paddle and the other toward the top for stability.

Turn the canoe in one direction to steer by allowing either the bow or steer person to lead direction so the canoe will turn. One will continue paddling to go left or right and the other will stop. Once the canoe straightens out, both paddlers can resume paddling.

Experiment with different strokes when using the paddles. The J stroke, which is performed on the port side or left mimics the letter J. The tip of the paddle rotates and pushes away from the edge of the canoe. This is a good way to paddle if one is canoeing alone. The Indian stroke is much like the J stroke, except the paddle is never removed from the water.

Use the Superior stroke method for steering and paddling. This is a good option for single paddlers. The paddle uses the face of the paddle to push against the water during the stroke. At the end of the stroke, the paddle is pried back in the water to provide movement and direction.

Maneuver the canoe through rough waters or emergencies by using a setting pole. The setting pole---used by the person sitting at the stern will help the boat to quickly veer away from large rapids, upcoming drops, sand bars, debris, other water obstacles and docks.

Utilize the paddles in a reverse motion---or push away stroke---to stop or slow down the canoe for docking on the shoreline. Allow the canoe to come to a stop on the shore. Step out and help passengers out of the canoe if needed. Pull the canoe to dry land and remove contents.

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How to Fix Hole in Your Canoe

Dangerous rapids and whitewater aren't the only obstacles for a canoeing boat. Many canoeing boats get damaged on their way to the water, usually by falling off a car top. Small holes and leaky seams can easily be fixed by using a variety of methods that work equally well on wood, plastic or aluminum canoeing boat.

Locate the hole. If it isn't obvious, dry off the canoe bottom, put water in the canoe and watch to see where the water escapes.

Small holes can be temporarily patched with duct tape. For the best adhesion, make sure the repair area and the tape are warm.

For a leaky seam, try a favorite old-timer's trick: Using a small stick, apply pine pitch along the leak. Pine pitch, the sticky gum found on pine trees, is extremely durable and waterproof.

Permanent repairs
Dry the canoe thoroughly.

Remove any dents around the damaged area if possible. Dents in plastic or aluminum canoes are sometimes pushed out from the inside.

Using a pair of scissors, cut a piece of fiberglass cloth slightly larger than the repair area.

Mix fiberglass resin and hardener in a paper cup according to the manufacturer's directions. Stir well with a wood strip such as an ice-pop stick.

Coat the repair area with the resin mixture. Place the fiberglass cloth over the repair area. Saturate the cloth with the mixture. Smooth the cloth with a wood strip to remove any air bubbles caught underneath it.

Watch for the resin mixture to become firm. Be prepared to trim any excess cloth or mixture with a sharp knife before the repair is fully hardened.

Smooth the repair with sandpaper once the mixture has hardened completely. Start with 100-grit paper to remove the roughest sections, then use 220-grit and finally finish with 400-grit.

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Good Tips to Roll Canoe

Rolling an open canoeing boat may seem to be a much harder skill to master than rolling a kayak since the open canoeing boat will be full of water, and unwieldy, but there are some things you can do that make it much easier than you would think.

A typical solo whitewater canoeing boat is essential, but it is possible to roll a long, two person canoe if outfitted for whitewater. Tight outfitting for the canoe is critical.
These directions start always from the upside down position, of course. Bring the blade of your paddle up to the bow, front of the canoe and position it on the surface of the water on the opposite side that you paddle on. This makes the paddle shaft parallel to the canoe side, and feels awkward.


There are several assumptions here, and one is that you already have a good knowledge of the names of various canoe stokes and how to do them. Next sweep the paddle in a one quarter circle out from the canoe sculling the power face of the blade over the water so that the blade stays on the surface.


As the paddle approaches a perpendicular angle to the canoe, you must, quickly and smoothly, flip the blade over so that the back side of the blade is now the power face, and rotate your legs and seat as quickly and smoothly as possible toward the paddle blade. You create momentum with this rotating motion, commonly called a low brace hip snap, and that momentum will bring you up.

It is essential to keep your head down on the shoulder that is on the paddle side, looking down at the paddle blade and shaft as your momentum brings you up. You can practice this motion on the side of a pool, holding on the side of the pool or with someone holding your paddle and hands in shallow water in a lake or pond.


I usually break the roll down into three steps. The paddle set-up, the sweep out, and then the low brace-up. The position of the head during the low brace-up must be way out over the side of the boat on the paddle side, looking very much down. It can also help to skull forward a little toward the bow on the back side of the paddle as you low brace up.

I like to visualize my paddle like a knife spreading peanut butter on bread as it moves over the surface of the water during the roll, using my back on the sweep out and my stomach on the low brace-up.

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How to Build Your Canoe

There are many ways to build a canoeing boat, including going the serious explorer route and cutting your own wood with which to create the craft. However, without making things too complicated, it's possible to build a canoeing boat from plywood in just a few days.

Choose a wood and canvas canoeing boat if you want making your canoe to be as cost-effective as possible. Choose a fiberglass canoe if you want a sleeker boat.

Build a fiberglass boat only if you are making it from a kit of pre-molded fiberglass pieces, or if you have a mold. Ensure that you have your mouth and nose covered with a filter to keep dangerous fibers out of your respiratory system. Local hardware stores often carry these in the paint section.

How to Build Your Canoe

Build a Canoe From Plywood
Cut two sheets of plywood about 1 foot wide and between 8 and 10 feet long. If there will always be two or more people in the canoe, opt for the longer length.

Place the two plywood sides together, one on top of the other, and drill four or five holes in a line down each end a few inches from the edge. "Sew" the two plywood side panels together using zip ties, cable ties or wire. These ties are simply to hold the wood together until you can join the seams later, so make sure the "loose" edges of the zip ties or wire are inside the boat, so you can make a smooth seam on the outside of the boat later.

Set your two side panels, which are affixed together, onto the sheet of plywood that will be the bottom of the boat. Spread apart the two side panels until the opening (which is now in the shape of a canoe) is as wide as you like. It should seat you comfortably and allow some room for maneuvering. Wider canoes are more stable, narrower canoes are easier to turn and guide.

Join the bottom of the boat to the sides by drilling holes every foot or so around the edge of the boat's bottom panel, and affixing it to the sides with the same type of zip ties or wire that you used to bring the front and back ends together. Again, the ends of the ties should be inside the boat.

Seal the inside seams with resin (or one of the marine epoxies on the market) and glass tape, and allow resin to dry. Wire or zip ties can be cut when the inside seams are sealed, and then the outside seams can be sealed with the resin.

Insert a cross bar between the two sides of the canoe to add strength.

Varnish the craft when you are done assembling the sides and the base. Let it dry and you are ready to take the canoeing boat out onto the water!

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How to Right Capsized Canoe

If you spend enough time paddling, the river will eventually get the best of you, flip your canoeing boat and toss you into the water. The best method for righting your vessel depends on a variety of factors, such as the depth and turbulence of the water, but the general principles are similar. Take advantage of any nearby vessels that can help you flip your boat more easily.

Prepare to Swim
Most canoeists can tell when a spill is coming. Give yourself the best chances of escaping unscathed by grabbing a paddle with one hand and a gunwale with the other when the ship starts flipping. Holding the paddle is important for paddling to safety once you are back in the boat, while gripping the gunwale helps avoid injuries caused by the flipping boat and gives you a better chance of clinging to your vessel. Many rivers are quite cold, so give yourself a moment to adjust to the chilly water before trying to right the ship.

In Shallow Water
If the water is shallow enough and the current gentle, you can right the canoeing boat where you are standing. If the water is too deep to flip the boat in place, swim toward the shore, dragging your boat behind or alongside you. Tuck the oars under the seats or some other secure location to avoid losing them in the current. Once you reach the shore, haul the boat from the water, allow it to drain, flip it over and place it back in the water.

Deep Water Challenges
It often is difficult to right a canoeing boat in deep water, but a partner makes the job much easier. Position yourself at the starboard side of the bow, and have your partner position himself on the port side of the stern. Swim underneath the boat, grab the gunwales and lift the boat over your head. This requires considerable effort, so kick your feet as hard as you can and make use of any available floatation devices to make the job easier. Try to dump out as much water as possible and then set it on the surface of the water, right side up. Enter the canoe from opposing sides of the boat, so each of you acts as a counterbalance to keep the boat steady.

Another Vessel to the Rescue
If another canoeing boat is close enough to assist you, make every effort to enlist their help. Maneuver the canoes so that the flipped craft’s bow touches the side of the assisting vessel, making a “T” shape. Push down on the stern while lifting the bow of the upside-down vessel and rest it on the gunwale of the assisting canoe. Slowly pull the canoe onto the assisting ship until it is balanced across the middle. After allowing all of the water to drain, flip the canoe over and slide it back into the water.

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Best Tips to Steer Your Canoe

Whether on a wide, calm lake, a meandering river or in white-knuckle rapids, knowing how to guide a canoeing  to the destination you want is one of the most basic requirements to having a good time in a canoeing boat. For the beginner, it can be a slow and delicate process, but with practice and the proper mechanics, steering a canoeing boat can be just as simple as steering a car.

The forward stroke is a simple stroke used to propel the canoe forward through the water. Assuming you have a partner and are in a two-person canoe, this is about the only stroke the bow (front) partner will ever have to use. As all actual steering should be done by the stern (back) partner. This stroke should follow an imaginary straight line through the water, not the curved side of the canoe. Following the curvature of the canoe will send the canoe ever so slightly off course with every stroke. This wastes energy that would be better used propelling the canoe. The sister stroke to the front stroke is the back stroke, used to slow and stop the canoe.

The draw stroke is performed by reaching away from the canoe (not too far if you like being dry) and pulling the paddle back to the canoe through the water. If performed at the same time and on the same side of the canoe by both partners this will cause the canoe to move laterally through the water. Though it is possible to steer with this stroke, it is not efficient or advisable. The exception to this is shooting rapids. While shooting rapids of any category, the bow partner should use the draw stroke to quickly steer the canoe away from obstacles.


The "J" stroke is one of the strokes used by the stern partner to affect the forward path of the canoe through the water. To perform this stroke, begin by executing a forward stroke, but push the paddle away from the canoe about halfway through the stroke. Properly executed, this will push the aft of the canoe in the opposite direction as the stroke. For example, if the stroke is executed on the right side of the canoe, the aft will be pushed left. This will adjust the path of the canoe to the right. If executed on the left side of the canoe, the aft will push right, adjusting the path to the left.

The "C" stroke is a sort of combination between forward the stroke and a draw. Begin the forward stroke with your paddle as far away from the canoe as you can reasonably reach. At the halfway point of the stroke, curve the paddle back towards the canoe. If executed on the right side of the canoe, this will draw the aft of the canoe to the right. This will alter the direction of the canoe to the left.

To maintain a straight line through the water, both partners should paddle with equal energy and on opposite sides of the canoeing boat. Having one partner paddle harder than the other will cause the canoe to drift off course. This will actually waste energy, as the stern partner will constantly have to adjust the course of the canoe.

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How to Build Good Cardboard Canoe

Building a cardboard canoeing boat is a challenging yet fun way to learn how canoeing boat work and what makes them float. These are meant to exhibit how canoeing boat actually float and don't allow you to paddle them far out into the water, but they're a great way to learn about how these boats provide transportation.

Learn about canoes and what makes them float. Canoes are sleek, long boats made of lightweight material which allows them to float easily. The more you learn about how canoes float, the easier it will be to envision its completion and help ensure that it works.

Measure and lay out the extra thick cardboard you'll use. Make sure it's large enough for the entire canoe. Check out the measurement specs at Canoe Colorado for an idea of how to size your canoe. A typical canoe is about 15 feet and 10 inches long.

Place the pre-measured cardboard onto a flat surface and smooth it out. Cut it into thin, long strips that will be the length of the canoe. A typical canoe is about 15 feet and 10 inches long.

Cut out some styrofoam in shapes to fit the inside, hollowed out area of the canoe using your specs. This serves as the mold or skeleton to build the canoe around.

Carefully lay out the styrofoam "skeleton" and then place the cardboard strips along this lengthwise. Attach each strip together using a sturdy and waterproof glue. Let dry.

Check to be sure the canoe is solid, and fill in any gaps with wood putty to fill in any holes.

Test the canoeing boat and make sure it floats before getting inside.

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Best Tips to Paint Fiberglass Canoes

Canoeing is both great fun and great exercise. There is nothing quite like gliding across a still lake or feeling the spray of water in your face as you paddle down a roaring river. To ensure that your canoeing boat will provide a lifetime of enjoyment it is essential to keep it well painted. This will protect it from water and weather damage.

Clean the entire surface that will be painted. All dirt should be washed off and then the canoeing boat should be thoroughly dried before painting. All stickers need to be removed before painting. Stickers can usually be scraped off and then the sticky residue can be cleaned with acetone or a gunk removal product.

Sand the surfaces on the canoe that are going to be painted with the 120-grit sandpaper. Once you are finished sanding, wipe off the dust remaining on the canoe with a clean rag.

Look over the surface of the canoe to ensure cleanliness and that all dust has been removed.

Mix the paint according to the directions on the can. Some brands may suggest using a thinner before painting while others do not.

Paint the canoe using the roller and brush. A roller is good for achieving more consistent coverage across a larger surface area and the brush is good for corners, edging and anywhere else that is hard to reach with a roller.

Let the canoe dry for 24 hours in an area that is well ventilated and out of the weather.

Repeat Step 2 through 6 after drying to give your canoeing boat a better looking and more protective coat.

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Pulley System Instructions for Storing Your Canoe

Canoeing boat take up a lot of space. Hanging them from the rafters saves space and makes room for other toys. A pulley system makes hanging a canoeing boat much easier. A single person can hang a canoeing boat with a pulley, although it’s easier with two people. Best of all, you won’t need many tools or equipment, or much money, to build an effective canoe-storage pulley system.

Securing Materialst
Buy the required materials. You’ll need one pulley for each canoe, one screw hook for each pulley, rope, a cleat (like you’d find on a dock) and screws. You’ll also need a hammer, screw gun, screwdriver and a ladder. A block and tackle is optional, as are two short lengths of chain and two S hooks per canoe. Make sure the pulley, rope and screw hooks are rated to hold the canoe.


Locating the Center Rafter
Lay the canoe on the floor. Find the center and match it up with the according rafter.

Attaching the Screw Hook
Climb the ladder. Pound a screw hook into the underside of the rafter to start it, then insert the screwdriver between the shank and the hook for leverage as you screw the hook into the wood.

Hanging the Pulley
Hang a pulley or a block and tackle on the screw hook. Hanging via a single pulley isn’t difficult, especially with help. However, a block and tackle reduces the amount of power required to lift the canoe exponentially.

Attaching the Rope
Run the rope through the single pulley.

Attaching the Cleat
Screw the cleat to a stud on the side of your garage wall about waist-high. Or attach a crank winch to the wall in lieu of a cleat to make hanging the canoe even easier.

Securing the Rope to the Canoe
Hang the innermost canoe first if you plan to hang multiple canoes. Tie the rope around the center thwart. If the canoe doesn’t have a center thwart, tie the rope around the thwarts between the seats so the canoe hangs horizontally. If using a block and tackle, tie a rope around the thwart, then slide the hook under the rope.

Raising the Canoe
Pull the rope to raise the canoe. If possible, have another person lift the canoe as you pull.

Tying Off the Rope
Wrap the rope around the cleat in a Figure 8 pattern when the canoe is high enough. Then make a loop, twist the rope, loop it over the entire cleat and pull to tie it off.

Chain Option
If you’re only hanging one canoe and the rope isn’t in your way, you’re done. However, you can also secure the canoe with chains over the rafter and remove the rope, either so the rope isn’t in your way, as a safety measure or to move to the next canoe.

Securing With Chains
With the canoe secured, climb the ladder and loop a chain over the rafter at each end of the canoe. Wrap the chain around the carrying handle, a thwart or the seat. It doesn’t matter where, but secure it in the same place at each end. Secure the chain with S hooks.

Rope Options
Remove the rope so it’s out of your way or leave it as a backup. Move on to the next canoeing boat if you’re hanging more than one.

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How to Make Your Canoe Stable

Canoeing has been a favorite outdoor recreation for centuries and is one of the most peaceful ways to enjoy nature. However, that peace can be short-lived if your canoeing boat tips and you find yourself floating downriver alongside your gear. Fortunately, there are many things you can do to prevent your canoeing boat from tipping. Help keep yourself and your gear safe and dry by learning how to make your canoe stable.

Consider the canoe itself. In general, the flatter and wider the bottom of your canoe is, the more stability it will have. Keep this in mind when renting a canoe, or if you are in the market to buy a canoe and are concerned about stability.

Pack your canoe with even weight distribution in mind. Stow large, heavy items such as packed coolers, tents, and cooking gear low and in the center of the canoe. Stow small, light items equally in the bow and stern areas. If you are canoeing solo, also stow enough weight in the bow to compensate for your weight in the stern.

Safely board your canoe. It is just as easy to tip a canoe while entering it near the shore as it is in open water. The "Fieldbook of the Boyscouts of America" advises, "...have one person hold the craft steady while the bowman gets in first. Place your hands on opposite gunwales for support and keep your weight centered and low while moving gracefully into the canoe."

Check your packed canoe for stability on the water. Once your canoe is fully loaded and the passengers are on board, make sure the canoe sits levelly in the water. If it does not, adjust your gear accordingly until the canoe floats levelly.

Preserve stability while afloat by limiting movement on board. Avoid leaning over the sides of the canoe or standing suddenly. If you must get up for something, crouch low with your hands on opposite gunwales and stay in the center of the canoe as you slowly move. If at all possible, steer your canoe to shore so that you can move about safely without the worry of tipping.

Tie two or more canoes together, side by side, for even greater stability. This should be done only if the waterway is calm and wide enough, and you plan on leisurely floating.

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Tips to Build Canoe Wall Rack

Many styles of canoeing boats are light and portable. But they are also large and a challenge to store. Storing a canoeing boat upside down on a rack created for the outdoors eliminates water accumulation in the boat, which can cause damage. Canoeing boat wall racks for indoors or outdoors use can be built with basic tools and carpentry skills.

Determine the plan for the canoe wall rack. The capacity of the rack plans vary from a single canoe model to a rack to hold up to six canoes. Build the project either indoors or out.

Cut the 2 by 4 inch boards to length. The project requires two uprights of 6 feet in height for a rack for three to six canoe and uprights of about 3 or 4 feet for canoe racks anywhere between one and four canoes. Cut cross members of 3 feet in length for rack projects of three or fewer canoes and 6 foot cross members for racks with a capacity of four to six canoes.

Attach one end of the cross members to the wall studs of open walls. Place an upright on the wall first if the wall is enclosed with wallboard or other materials. Place the lowest cross member high enough to elevate the canoe off the floor or ground or about 1 foot high. Place each cross member about 3 feet above the the lower ones. Temporarily attach the cross members to the wall studs with a single16 box nail or 3 inch deck screw.

Attach the cross members to the uprights. The upright is placed at the end of the 3 foot long cross members used for a one- to three-canoe rack or at the midpoint of the 6 foot long cross members used for racks accommodating four to six canoes. Place a level on the cross member and mark the point on the upright where the cross member is level. Fasten the cross members to the uprights with two 16 box nails or 3 inch deck screws. Add a second fastener to each connection between the cross members and the wall studs.

Add a brace between the two uprights for additional strength.

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Redecorate Old Fiberglass Canoe

A cheap way to pick up a canoeing boat or skiff is to buy a used one, but used boats rarely come without problems. At a minimum, you will want to return an old, worn-down canoeing boat to a fresh, like-new appearance. Past that, an old canoeing boat might have cracks or holes and need repair. Refurbishing an old fiberglass canoe or skiff can prove to be a lengthy task, but the result will be a fresh-looking boat that you can rely on.

Inspect the hull of the fiberglass canoe or skiff for cracks or holes. Also inspect it for any scratches or gouges that you want to remove, and circle those with a wax pencil for future reference.

Sand the edges of any hole(s) with medium-grit sandpaper so that the edges are smooth and have a concave face. In other words, the edges of any hole should be sanded to form something of a bowl.

Measure the crack or hole with a tape measure. For a crack, cut two pieces of fiberglass patching cloth with dimensions that extend 2 inches in all directions around the crack. For a hole, cut cloth sized to be stacked on top of another to plug the hole. A patching cloth will be 1/32 inch when dry, so if your hull is 1/2-inch thick, you need 8 cloths. Each cloth should be a little larger, and only the last one needs to be 2 inches larger than the perimeter of the hole.

Tape a layer of plastic wrap over the outside of the hole, then tape a layer of cardboard over the plastic wrap. This provides a solid base for placing your patching cloths.

Mix the epoxy from your patching kit in a disposable paper bowl with an old popsicle stick or something like it. If you are patching a crack, coat the first patch with epoxy and lay it smoothly over inside the crack. Then lay the second patch over the outside of the crack. To patch holes, lay the epoxy-coated patches into the inside of the hole, using the smallest patch first and so on, until the hole is plugged with patches, and the top patch covers and seals the entire plug.

Leave the patchwork to set overnight. Return the next day and pull off the cardboard and plastic wrap.

Sand the surface of the patchwork so it is flush with the hull of the canoe or skiff. Remove most of the excess fiberglass with rough-grit sandpaper. Then smooth the work out with one medium-grit sanding and one fine-grit sanding for a nice finish.

Repeat this procedure to eliminate any scratches that were marked with the wax pencil earlier. Sand the scratches out with rough-grit sandpaper, then produce a smooth finish with medium- and fine-grit sandpaper. If you intend to paint the canoe or skiff as part of the refurbishing job, you may wish to sand the entire hull with fine-grit sandpaper at this stage.

Painting
Pull off any old stickers by warming them with a heat gun or pouring boiling water onto the sticker. Remove the gummy adhesive left behind with a putty knife or an acetone solvent.

With masking tape, tape off end caps, gunwales, and other points on the canoe that you do not want to paint.

Sand the entire surface of the canoe with fine-grit sandpaper, unless you already did this while removing scratches. Rinse off the hull and let it dry.

With either a roller or brush, apply a light layer of fiberglass primer to the hull of the canoe or skiff. Allow this to dry for at least eight hours.

Apply at least two coats of fiberglass paint or marine paint to the hull. Allow each coat at least eight hours to dry before applying a second coat. Keep an eye out for streaks forming behind your painting strokes, and push out any streaks with a foam brush.

Pull off the masking tape used to protect areas from paint. If it looks like some of the paint will come with the tape, use the putty knife to control the peeling.

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Fiberglass Versus Traditional Canoe

When selecting a canoeing boat, you must choose between several different models, sizes and price points. However, one of the most important characteristics to consider is the material used to construct the canoeing boat. Historically wood and aluminum were popular materials for canoeing boats construction, but many modern canoes are made from fiberglass – and are advertised as fiberglass composite canoes. Additionally, some manufacturers utilize proprietary materials when constructing their canoes.

Fiberglass Canoes
To make a fiberglass canoe, manufacturers combine woven textiles with polymer resins. Because manufacturers can produce sharp lines and intricate designs with fiberglass, canoes made from the material are often among the most efficient canoes available; the crisp lines allow the vessel to cut through the water. However, fiberglass canoes are sometimes brittle, which can lead them to crack easily. Fortunately, it is relatively easy to repair fiberglass canoes with a patch kit; patches are nearly invisible once completed, and this helps protect the aesthetic appeal of your craft.

Aluminum Canoes
Aluminum canoes are often rather slow, but they are generally very durable. This makes them heavy, but able to withstand the day-to-day punishment of paddling. Because aluminum is somewhat difficult to form, aluminum canoes rarely feature elaborate, highly sculpted shapes. Manufacturers use several different types of aluminum when making canoes, resulting in some that perform better than others. While it is possible to repair aluminum canoes, the results often look shoddy.

Wood Canoes
Contrary to what many suppose – wooden canoes often bear higher price tags than similarly sized aluminum or fiberglass vessels. While wood may be cheaper than other materials, the construction process is much more difficult, thus raising the price. Wooden canoes often offer a smooth ride and they work well in a variety of different water bodies, including lakes, oceans and rivers. Drawbacks of wooden canoes include the higher price point and significant mass, but they may last decades with careful use.

Other Materials
Manufacturers often build high-end canoes from Kevlar – a fabric that is both lighter and stronger than steel. Kevlar canoes are not cheap, but they weigh very little – about 25 percent less than similar fiberglass models -- and durability makes them favorites among many advanced paddlers. Royalex is a proprietary plastic that manufacturers use to make very durable, if heavy, canoes. Canoe manufacturers often build low-budget, entry-level craft from a type of plastic called polyethylene. While such canoes often have attractive price tags for novices, polyethylene is not very rigid. A polyethylene canoe may deform slightly while you are paddling or warp when left in the sun.

Making the Selection
You must consider the applications in which you will be using your canoeing boat to determine the best construction material for your needs. For example, fiberglass canoes are very lightweight, which makes them well suited for paddlers who must lug their canoes long distances or travel with them. By contrast, aluminum boats are rather heavy, but their durability makes them excellent choices for novices and children, who are likely to slam into numerous rocks while paddling. Wooden boats are heavier than aluminum boats, but they are often handcrafted and beautiful, which appeals to some traditionalists.

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Best Tips to Build Wooden Canoeing Boats

Wooden canoeing boats take a variety of forms from the old-fashioned birchbark canoeing boats to the modern cedar strip/epoxy fiberglass canoeing boats which preserves the beauty of the wooden canoe, but makes construction simpler and less vulnerable to the elements. Building a wooden canoe can be a daunting task. The following is a simple 3-element plywood flat bottom canoe design that takes advantage of modern construction materials.

Mark the shapes for one half of the boat according to the plans on one sheet of plywood. Cut out the shapes and lay them on the other sheet of plywood. Mark around the shapes and cut out the other half from the second sheet of plywood.

Lay the pieces in position where they will be, before starting to assemble the boat. First fit the ends of the bottom panel pieces together. Lay a piece of duct tape over the seam where the two halves of the bottom panel meet in the center. Flip the bottom panel over. The bottom will look like an elongated football.

Cut an 8-inch wide strip from the quarter inch plywood the length of the center seam between the two bottom panel halves minus 2 inches. Glue the butt block over the seam on the inside (opposite side you duct taped) leaving 1 inch between the end of the butt block and the edge of the bottom panel. Allow to set and cure overnight.

Cut the two left side panel halves and duct tape the seam between them on the outside. Cut another 8-inch wide butt block 2 inches shorter than the length of the seam between the panels. Glue the side panel butt block over the center seam between the side panel halves covering the seam and leaving the ends of the block 1 inch from the sides of the side panels. Allow to set and cure overnight. Repeat with the right side panels.

Fit the left side panel to the bottom by bending the bottom seam along the edge of the bottom panel. Duct tape the pieces together on what will be the outside of the boat as you move along the seam. Repeat with the right side panel till you have the three pieces taped together in the shape of your finished canoe. Duct tape the ends together. Do not tape anything on the inside of the hull.

Cut a dowel to the desired width at the center of the boat and temporarily duct tape the dowel where the center thwart fits across the center of the hull at the top edges. Duct tape two more thwarts in place to act as spreaders during the seaming process and hold the boat's shape.

Seaming
Paint the entire inside surface of the hull with epoxy-based fiberglass resin and allow to cure.

Apply epoxy-based wood putty filler into all the inside seams and allow to set and cure.

Paint the puttied seams and the butt blocks at the center with epoxy resin. Lay fiberglass tape on top of the resin over the seams and paint with epoxy-based fiberglass resin. Smooth the tape with a putty knife to remove bubbles and lay the fiberglass tape flat against the hull. Allow to cure.

Remove all the duct tape on the outside of the hull. Flip the hull upside down and paint with epoxy-based fiberglass resin and allow to cure.

Apply a putty fillet over all the outside seams. Allow to dry and cure. Paint the puttied seams with resin and then lay the fiberglass tape and resin as before. Allow to cure to create a strong fiberglass "beam" at each seam between the panels. Lay an extra layer of fiberglass tape at the bow and stern to strengthen and round the ends of the boat.

Finishing
Shape the seams with a grinder or sander to round the seams on the outside of the hull once the fiberglass is hard. Turn the boat upright

Screw 1 inch wide, quarter inch thick hardwood strips inside and outside the hull at the top edges to form gunwales and strengthen the frame.

Remove the tape from the temporary thwarts and screw the hardwood dowels in place through the hull into the ends of the hardwood dowels.

Attach the triangular deck plates called for in the plans to the tips of the bow and stern just below the gunwales. Use screws through the hull. Coat all screw ends with epoxy-based resin.

Paint the hull or apply a layer of lightweight fiberglass cloth to the outside of the hull and coat 3 layers of pigmented epoxy-based fiberglass resin. If you use unpigmented resin, the fiberglass will be transparent. Do the same to the inside to create a smoother surface and to protect the plywood.

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How to Make Canoe Mold

Before you can make a fiberglass, cedar-epoxy or composite canoeing boat, you have to have a canoeing boat mold. Unless you are a proficient marine designer or have a good design to work from, you may not want to just “eyeball” your mold design. Too much or too little freeboard, rocker, width, length or tumble-home can leave you with a canoeing boat that’s unstable and tipsy. Having a good design specification to work from, however, can help you build your mold.

You Need
Sheets of 5/8-inch plywood 2 16-foot-long 2-by-6’s 2 10-foot-long 2-by-4's 2 sawhorse clamps Sabre saw Canoe Mold Station templates (order on-line) 1 box of 3-inch wood screws 1 box of 1 1/2-inch wood screws 50 thin (1/8-inch) 2-inch-wide plywood strips, 10 feet long Power sander 16-foot-long 1-by-1 wood strip Wood filler Putty knife
Turn a 16-foot 2-by-6 on edge and clamp a sawhorse leg 5 feet from each end. Cut four 2-foot-long 2-by-4’s and nail them into the sawhorse clamps. Set the assembly up on the legs, and nail the other 2-by-6 flat on top. This is the strongback to which the stations will be attached like the skeleton of a prehistoric beast.

Trace the shapes of the canoe mold station templates onto the plywood sheets, and cut them out. Cut a notch the width of the 2-by-6 and 7 inches deep into the flat side of each station mold. Set the stations in place along the strongback, spaced according to the plans that came with the templates.

Cut 5-inch-long 2-by-4 blocks, and screw to the top of the strongback on either side of each station mold. Screw the station molds to the 2-by-4 supports.

Mark the pattern of the bow and stern templates onto plywood. Cut them out with the saber saw. Screw the templates perpendicularly to the last station mold on each end. Cut 2-by-4 keeper blocks to hold the base of the end templates in place. Screw everything in place. This is enough of a canoe mold to make an epoxy cedar strip canoe. If you are planning a fiberglass, Kevlar, wood canvas or traditional ribbed cedar strip canoe, you’ll have to cover the mold by adding plywood strips to form a more complete outside shape.

Screw thin plywood strips longitudinally starting at the bow and working toward the stern. Screw row after row in place. Stagger the strips so the ends don’t line up. Pre-drill all the screws so the heads are level with the surface. Glue a 1-by-1 strip down the length of the bottom, and then sand it down to the keel shape desired. Pre-drill screw holes, and screw the keel in place for extra strength.

Fill gaps between the strips with wood filler, and smooth it with a putty knife. When dry, sand the hull smooth. Paint the mold with a thick layer of epoxy varnish. When building a fiberglass or Kevlar canoeing boat, you will have to cover the mold with wax so it will release the boat when you are through.

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Fast Facts About Canoes

Canoeing has been used for years as a sport, a way to hunt and a form of transportation for trading products. Before factories began manufacturing canoeing boat, they were created by hand, using specific trees and roots found throughout North America. When canoeing, you should take safety precautions, such as carrying a GPS system to make sure you stay on course and carrying the proper equipment.

History
Derived from the word "kenu," which means dugout, canoes were first used by Native Americans, according to the All About Canoes website. The first canoes were crafted from the bark of birch trees, because of its smoothness, light weight and waterproof surface. If birch trees were not available, canoe makers commonly used spruce bark in its place. All About Canoes adds that white pine roots, used to hold the canoe together, were covered in spruce resin or hot pine to make the roots waterproof.

The first known canoe factory was created in 1750 by the French in Trois-Rivieres, Quebec, as fur trading became more widespread throughout North America. The canoes made during that time period generally could hold a total of 12 passengers.

Types
While early canoes were only made of wood, in the early 21st century canoes are made from fiberglass, wood and aluminum. Fiberglass canoes are made from mixing plastic resin with fibers of glass and then spraying the mixture into a mould. This style of canoe is generally inexpensive and requires low maintenance. All About Canoes claims that when purchasing a canoe, you should try to avoid the chopped strand fiberglass-style of canoes, as they are not very strong and can be heavy. Better quality canoes are made from polyester, epoxy or vinyl resins that are combined with woven cloth. The combination of fiber cloth and resin produces a light, yet very strong canoe, adds All About Canoes.

Aluminum canoes are made from aluminum alloys. They tend to be cold during the spring months and hot in the summer months. All About Canoes also reports that aluminum canoes are the most popular in 2010.

Safety
While canoeing may be one of the oldest activities in North America, safety is still an important issue. If you are canoeing alone, tell a friend or family member where you are paddling and how long you expect the trip to take. Always carry a cell phone when canoeing, especially when traveling on your own. Proper safety equipment is essential. Wear multiple layers to withstand different types of weather, wear a life jacket, and always carry food and water in a pack. Canoe and Kayak Store recommends that you stay on the planned course, avoid paddling during the night, and know how to swim before starting your canoeing adventure. The website also points out that it is vital to know how to maneuver the vessel and how to hold the paddles before you canoe.

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How to Make a Canoeing Boat

Canoeing is a great way to enjoy the outdoors and spend a little time bonding with nature. Many people enjoy fishing in canoeing boats, which maneuver in shallow water where boats containing motors cannot. Canoeing boat terms are the same as for other small boats. The front of the canoe is called the "bow" and the back is referred to as the "stern". Many features on a canoe can help you to determine which end is which.

Observe the ends of the canoe. Look to see which end forms a narrow tip. The front or bow of the canoe is narrower than the back, as it cuts through the water as you paddle. The back still forms a point but is much wider to stabilize the canoe as it turns.

How to Make a Canoeing Boat

Notice the seating arrangements on the canoe. Observe which seats allow leg room in front of the seat. The back seat will be closer to the back of the canoe. The front seat is closer to the middle of the canoe to allow leg room for the front passenger.

Locate the drain holes on the bottom or hull of the canoe. The drain holes are located at the rear or stern of the canoe to drain out any water that enters the canoe.

Check to see if there is any text on the side of your canoe. The direction of the letters or brand of your canoe will help determine which way the canoe is supposed to face.

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Mount Trolling Motor to Canoe Boat

If you spend a lot of time fishing in your canoeing boat, or just like the idea of cruising in your canoeing boat without having to paddle, a lightweight trolling motor can be just the thing. If you have a square ended canoeing boat, simply clamp the trolling motor to the transom. For a regular double-ended canoe, you'll have to make a motor mount on which to hang your trolling motor. The job is not difficult and can be completed in under an hour.

Measure the width of your canoe just ahead of the stern deck behind the seat or stern thwart. Add 12 inches to the width of the canoe and cut a two-by-four to that length.

Attach the two-by-four across the gunwales of your canoe just in front of the stern deck, with the extra width sticking out on the side most comfortable for you. If your strongest paddling side is left, extend the motor mount to the right, and vice versa. C-clamp the board to the gunwale on both sides.

Tighten the C-clamps at the gunwale until they dimple the wood, and then loosen and take the clamps off. With a paddle bit, drill out a 1/4-inch deep hole the size of the dimple with a paddle bit. This allows the end of the C-clamp to fit firmly in the hole and prevents slippage when the motor is mounted.

Position a 10-inch 2-by-10 on its edge along the back edge of the 2-by-4 where it hangs over the side. Mark where the upright 2-by-10 meets the 2-by-4 cross member. Set the hinge in place and mark around it on the boards. Mark and pre-drill the holes for the mounting screws for the hinge. Screw the hinge in place so that the 2-by-10 mounting block folds forward. This allows the motor to kick up if it hits something. The forward thrust of the propeller will hold the motor upright.

Clamp the trolling motor to the hinged mount with the motor mounting brackets. Drill two holes through the cross member 2-by-4 close to the near gunwale and large enough to push the power cord through one and the cord for the speed control pedal through the other. Hook the power cord and speed pedal to the motor.

Set the battery toward the bow of the canoe and attach it with a strap to a thwart so it won't shift around. Use a marine deep-cycle battery. A backup battery is a good idea, but will limit how many people and how much gear you can load.

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Tie Down Canoe on Top of Van

Many people transport their canoeing boats by van, but danger lurks for paddlers who don't know the proper way to secure their canoeing boat to roofs of their vans. Even when their canoeing boat are secure, driving with such an unwieldy object on top of a van is a challenge, at best.

Install a rack for your canoe and secure it to the roof of your van. If your trips to the water are infrequent, an inexpensive roof rack that's made of plastic foam is the right one for you. It will protect the finish on your roof and it is relatively secure in that the edges of the canoe, or gunwales, are snapped onto the rack. Many boaters purchase such a device because it is easy to take off of their vans. You can also use a permanent rack. While you'll spend more money, it is far more secure and the canoe won't shift as much as it may on a rack made of plastic. What's more, it will keep your canoe from harming your roof because it is above it. The rack is secured by bolts or clamps and there are horizontal bars that are above the roof by a couple of inches.

Pick up the canoe, with the aid of another person, and turn it upside down so that the edges of the boat are facing down. Place the canoe on the roof of your van and center it both horizontally and vertically before you strap it down. To take the canoe off your van's roof, simply reverse this process.

Tie your canoe down with either ropes or straps. If you use rope, make sure that it is not new, as new ropes tend to stretch. Place a minimum of two ropes horizontally and in the middle of your canoe, then secure them tightly. At each end of your canoe, place a rope or strap through the opening of the boat, both fore and aft, and tie them tightly to your bumper. Pull each as tight as possible without cracking the fiberglass or plastic hull of your canoe.

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Best Tips Carry Canoe Boat on Van

Canoeing is an inexpensive and relaxing hobby that can be fun for individuals or the whole family. Rather than renting a canoeing boat every time, you can buy your own canoeing boat and carry it on your vehicle. Transporting your canoe to and from the water need not be a challenge, even if you have a minivan. With your own canoe, you can be sure of your equipment and have the correct-sized canoe for your needs.

Place padding or blankets on the roof of your minivan to avoid scratching or denting your paint job. If you have a roof rack, you may skip this step, unless your canoe is longer than the rack. Roll up or fold blankets to create a barrier between your vehicle and the edges of the canoe. Place the padding near the front of the roof and near the back. You can also use pillows, seat cushions, mattress pads or any other type of padding. You don't need to secure the cushioning because the weight of the canoe will hold them down.

Put the canoe upside down on top of your minivan. Center the canoe on the minivan and make sure that there is not too much overhang on the front or back of the van. A small amount of overhang is OK or even necessary.

Strap the canoe down across the front and back of the canoe. Hook or tie the straps to the roof rack of the minivan. If you have no roof rack, run the straps down under the minivan and hook or tie the ends to the chassis of the minivan. Most vans have hook holes in the frame just under the door panels. Ratchet the straps down until they are tight, and tie off the slack.

Tie down the bow of the canoe to the front of your minivan. Depending on your minivan design, it may be best to hook the strap to the frame underneath the front bumper for extra security.

Check the canoe's stability by pushing on it and making sure it doesn't wobble or move around.

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