Thinking of a New Hobby? Consider Collecting Stamps

With the prices of homes in the real estate business rising, most people are opting for a log cabin. Log cabins are relatively cheaper and are eco-friendly given the fact that the logs are from trees which are renewable material. It is very easy to decorate the interior of a log cabin. A few accessories and quality furniture will do the trick. But, how can you change a log cabin exterior and make it appealing? With the right guidance, you will realize that it is very easy to change the exterior of a log cabin and you don't have to be a professional to do it.

Roofing

The roof enhances the general appearance of a log cabin. When transforming the exterior of such construction, this process won't be complete if you stick with the old roofing. There is a lot that can be done to change the general appearance of the roof. Changing the color or the shape or even changing the roofing materials! If the process is done right, this will transform the log cabin exterior look to something new and thrilling to the eyes.

Garden

Plants add life and compliment the exterior of your cabin. There are those who choose to grow flowers and the others that go with the vegetables. The garden is a perfect decoration for both the front and the backyard of a log cabin. You can always choose the theme for a wishing garden, such as, English, Japanese, feng shui style and alike. It's important not to forget that the garden should be a place where the good vibes appear. What ads more fun to have a log cabin with a garden - is your own grown vegetables, that are an option for healthier eating. And of course for more active leisure spending.

Terrace

Basically, a terrace is a platform that extends outwards from a building. This is a place where you can relax over the weekend and spend quality time with your family enjoying the sunshine or the cool breeze. Nevertheless, a terrace changes the exterior of a log cabin. Have some quality furniture and complementing accessories on the terrace wishing to create a perfect place to spend your free time alone or in someone's company.

Log repair

Some logs are prone to rotting, infestation by pests and others crack. The logs should be inspected at least once in a period of 6 months. Wood is sensitive to excess of the moisture and pests, so the proper maintenance is needed. The best way to protect your logs is to impregnate and cover their surface with one or two layers of special cover materials or paints. If the logs are completely damaged - the best option would be to replace them with new ones.

Apply sun-block

Wood is a very sensitive material. It reacts to rain, temperature changes and the sun of course. The huge amount of UV rays can cause the colour fading and the appearance of cracks. Well pigmented stains and other products that are created to prevent this, will help to keep the construction exterior even more beautiful and strong for a longer time. The most important thing that should not be forgotten is to apply this special protection every 2-3 years.

Gutters

Gutters are one of the most important parts of a log cabin. Together with the roof, they perform a security function from the excess of rain water. It's very important to check if they perform protecting function perfectly. Any damage here should be fixed and the broken parts should be replaced with new ones, because the proper care of them will help you to protect the walls of a log cabin from swallowing and rotting.

Change the design

Log cabins are great constructions which design unlike other material buildings can be changed. So if you build a wooden cabin it doesn't mean that you cannot expand it in the future. With the help of specialist almost all wishes in a design can be fulfilled.

Lighting

When it comes to lighting, most people pay more attention to the interior of the cabin and forget that the exterior requires similar attention too. In a log cabin, exterior lights are mostly for security reasons but this is not always the case. For those who have a beautiful garden with a terrace, various lamps will help to lighten the necessary territory and also to give more coziness and beauty to the surroundings of your house at the night-time.

Repainting

Paints perform not only protective role, but also give more beauty to the exterior. The most important thing to know here is that paints have the ability to fade, so the layer should be renewed in 2-3 year period. The great thing is that you can repaint your log cabin in every wishing color because the choice of the paints is very wide.

Resuming all log cabin is a perfect construction for those who like to be close to the nature and like to have a very flexible construction that can be easily changed and modified according to the wishes. The exterior is a part that gives the most first impression about the coziness of a house. So take care of your log cabin well!

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Step-By-Step Guide to Creating eBook

In part 1, How eBooks Help to Generate Valuable Leads, we covered what an eBook is and how they can generate valuable leads, along with some critical success factors.

Writing doesn't come easily to many people. How many times have you stared at a blank screen wondering where to start and what to say? Well, professional writers face the same problems.

Firstly, you need a distraction free environment. This is the most common piece of advice I've found, and it's true. You need peace and quiet (or music) to get into the zone because once you are there, you will be unstoppable. Get comfortable with tea or coffee, close your email, put your phone on silent (or leave it in another room) and don't touch social media.

Using Word or a similar program is the simplest method because you can write, format and insert images with ease and then PDF your eBook for distribution. It's also easy to give the document to a graphic designer for a professional make-over.

Target Your Audience
For your eBook to have an impact, it must address a specific audience. By understanding exactly who you want to reach, you can more easily create content to address their pain points.

As with all content marketing, the best ingredient for success is to truly understand the audience you are writing for and tailoring the content to solve a problem or answer a question that is common to the group (and relevant to your business, otherwise it's kind of pointless).

Pick a Topic
A great tip for your first eBook is to choose a topic that you already know a lot about and that you'll enjoy writing about.

This saves you doing lots of research before beginning, and it dramatically increases your chances of completing the eBook. As you are the one writing and promoting it, you need to believe in it (cheesy yes, but important for success). It's best to be passionate and knowledgeable about the topic.

Write a Headline
It can be a draft one for now, but it will help you to focus and not run off on a tangent. You can perfect it later.

Write an Outline with Subheadings
One of the simplest ways to make writing easier is to have a clear outline before you begin. Start by writing sub-headings for the key points you will address, almost like a contents page. Broad topics should be broken down into short chapters as it helps people to read in-depth content.

Then in bullet points, jot downs ideas about what content you should cover in each section. Drawing a mind map can also help you to capture all the relevant points and how they will link with each other.

How Long Should an eBook be?
Think of an eBook as a super long article. Good articles should be 1,000 to 2,000 words, so for an eBook aim for than 3,000+ words, or long enough to adequately cover the topic. If you want to sell the eBook, then it should be much longer. Give yourself a word target for each chapter.

The First Draft
The highest chance of staring at a blank screen is right here. Years ago, I read some writing advice that works well for me (I do a lot of writing). Just start writing, forget spelling and grammar because you can fix that later. Forget about the proper way to articulate a sentence, just start writing!

Pretend you are simply emailing a friend to take the pressure off. Here's why: you can't edit a blank page. Just begin writing the steps, rules to follow or ways to approach a problem. It also helps to focus on the result and work backwards.

The Tone and Appearance
The eBook needs to be easy to read, so make it conversational, use simple and clear language. A good tip is to use "you" and "I" so that the reader feels you are speaking directly with them. The visual design will also contribute to making the eBook easy to read:

Structure the content with headings, sub-heading, paragraphs, bullet points and bold important points to make it skim friendly. Many people will skim through to get the gist and then read from the beginning if they are interested.
Make it appealing by breaking up heavy text with images, graphs or infographics.
Design with your brand in mind, you want it to reflect the same colours, text styles and imagery so that it's instantly recognisable as your business. Consistent branding is key in every piece of marketing that you do for customers to remember you.
Use a simple font like Arial, Veranda or Georgia at size 14 or 16 and then a simple colour scheme with your brand colours. Don't go overboard when it comes to this stuff! Less is always more in the design field. You should also avoid bright reds for text as it looks spammy.
Use images to complement the topic.
Shutterstock is my go-to image library and images are only AUD$5 each.
There are also plenty of free image sites.
When promoting your eBook, the cover, title and blurb will be extremely important because people will use this to judge whether to provide their email address. Combine visual attractiveness with stating exactly what the reader will achieve by reading your eBook. "Learn how to train your puppy in 10 easy steps" i.e. by applying these principles you will have a more obedient puppy that will respond to your commands, kerb bad behaviour and do tricks.
The Re-Write
Take a break and then re-read your draft with fresh eyes. Your eBook must provide more or better quality information than you would find in a random article or blog post so that a reader finds it valuable enough to provide their information for it.

Cover a topic more comprehensively than you've seen elsewhere
Compile and include relevant research if applicable
Consider interviewing industry experts and including their perspectives
Include real-life success stories or statistics that show positive results
Include checklists, quick tips, infographics, or how-to information
Share personal experience or stories to make your eBook relatable
I'm going to highlight the word 'practical' because people want information they can use and apply straight away. That's exactly the aim of this article; I want you to know the benefits of writing an eBook, but also provide detailed steps so that you can sit down and write one.
Proof Read
Whether you do this yourself, have someone else do it or put it through a grammar checker such as Grammarly, this is important. Although we are all human and make mistakes, people can be very harsh when they spot errors in your writing, especially on social media.

I have the paid version of Grammarly and have it integrated with my internet browser and Word so that it helps me to proof all writing. Having another person proof the document can also tell you if the content is coherent and solves the problem.

Convert to PDF
PDF is universally viewable on PC, MAC, tablets and smartphones and will retain your exact formatting, font and colours. Try to aim for a modest file size, between 1-4MB so that it can be easily emailed and downloaded with not-so-great internet connections. Look for a "save as PDF" function.

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The History of Indian Head Penny

The Indian Head one-cent coin is a legal tender penny produced by the U.S. mint in the second half of the 19th Century through the early part of the 20th Century. Due to economic factors and changing standards, different editions of the coin have different material compositions, thus making certain versions more popular and valuable with collectors than others.

History
The California gold rush of the late 19th century had a profound effect on the precious metal trade. Bills backed by silver rose in value as gold become more abundant and the mint reduced the number of silver in coins to balance prices. To help further mitigate this imbalance, a new penny, the Flying Eagle Cent was issued, but manufacturing problems arose from its design. In 1959, a design by James Barton Longacre---nicknamed the Indian Head Cent---was issued. Production problems continued due to the high relief on the reverse, but the penny was minted until 1909.

Description
The obverse of the Indian Head Cent features a right-facing profile of an American Indigenous person wearing a feather bonnet. "United States of America" and the year in which the coin was minted are also included. The reverse reads "One Cent," set within a laurel or oak wreath. In 1860, the design was changed slightly, adding a shield at the top and three arrows under the ribbon that binds the edges of the wreath. The edges of both sides are ridged.

Misconceptions
While a myth endures that Longacre modeled the face on the coin after his daughter, there is no evidence to support this. Longacre' sketch of "Venus Accroupie," a museum piece in Philadelphia, has surfaced and is dated ten years before the coin was minted. It is likely this sketch served as the basis for the design.

Value
The value of the Indian Head Cent has changed over the year, but every pressing of the coin, in mint condition, is worth at least a dollar. Rare editions are worth in excess of $100. The 1877 pressing is the most valuable and one of these coins in mint condition is worth approximately $440, according to the 2008 Blue Book Handbook of U.S. Coins.

Consideratinos
The original 1859 version of the penny was comprised of 88 percent copper and 12 percent nickel. In 1864, congress passed a new Coinage Act, changing the composition of the Indian Head Cent to "French Bronze," which was 95 percent copper and 5 percent tin and zinc. Although the coin had limited legal tender status previously, it was officially recognized in 1865. The earlier edition weighs 72 grains while the newer version weighs 48 grains. 1,849, 648,000 Indian Head Cents were minted over the course of its production.

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The History of Buffalo Nickel

While you would be hard pressed to find a Buffalo nickel in your pocket change nowadays, there is a history to this nickel. The Buffalo nickel took the United States from pre-World War I, through the Great Depression and to the beginning of World War II. Any coins found from circulation are rare, and because of design flaws, most are hard to date without out destroying the integrity of the coin.

History

Before the Buffalo nickel there was Charles Barber's Liberty Head nickel, which had been in production since 1883. This coin had not been well received, but under the Coinage Act of 1890, a coin's design could not be changed until after it had been in circulation for at least 25 years, meaning the lackluster Liberty Head had to be used until 1909. In a May 1911 letter from his son to then Secretary of the Treasury, Franklin MacVeagh, it was advised that a new nickel could become "a permanent souvenir of the most attractive sort." MacVeagh didn't want to pass up the chance to change the coin. However, MacVeagh completely bypassed Barber, and started looking for a new design and designer. James Earle Fraser was chosen and work began. On March 4, 1913, coins from the first bag to be released into circulation were given to President William Howard Taft and a group of 33 Indian chiefs during the groundbreaking for the National Memorial to the North American Indian located in Fort Wadsworth, New York.

Features

Designed by artist James Earle Fraser, the Buffalo nickel features an Indian head profile on the obverse, or front, and the image of a buffalo on the reverse, or back of the coin. Instead of drawing from memory, Fraser used an assemblage of three chiefs, Iron Tail, Two Moons and Chief John Big Tree, who had previously posed for him. Similarly, the bison, Black Diamond, from Central Park Zoo was the model for the reverse. At the time, the words "In God We Trust" were not a requirement of nickels or pennies, and therefore are not seen on the buffalo nickel. By the time the 1938 Jefferson nickel was released, however, all coins were by then required to bear the inscription. The nickels were minted out of Philadelphia (no mark), San Francisco (S), and Denver (D), with the mint mark shown below the denomination "five cents" on the back. Fraser set his initial, "F," just under the date on the face of the coin.

Time Frame

The minting of the Buffalo nickel was performed between 1913 through 1938. During its production 1.2 billion nickels were minted. Because of World War I there was a decrease in demand for coins, only 1.6 million of the rare 1921-S Buffalo nickels were produced, and no nickels were made at all in 1922. With the onset of the Great Depression, during the years of 1931 to 1933, a mere 1.2 million nickels were struck in San Francisco. After the Denver only production of the 1938 Buffalo nickels, its run was over, and in as few as 30 years later it was already hard to find any Buffalo nickels in circulation.

Types

the early release, the Buffalo nickel, it, the denomination lettering

A few months after the early release of the Buffalo nickel, it became apparent that the denomination lettering would wear down too quickly in circulation. Barber was quick to make crude adjustments to the coin to "resolve" the issue and make other changes while he was at it. The image of the buffalo on a mound, standing for strength, was altered when Barber simply drew a line through the mound and crudely set the words "five cents" below the line, all but erasing the mound completely. The rare original coin of the buffalo on raised ground is now considered Type 1 with the adjusted, lined version being named Type 2. For all of his work, however, Barber did nothing to address the wear issue of the date on the front. Chemicals can be used to reveal the date, but ruin the value of the coin. Another interesting rare form of the coin was the result of an accident. When one of the reverse dies had become damaged, a workman attempting to fix the problem accidentally ground the die too far. These 1937-D Buffalo nickels are missing one of the front legs and the "three-legged buffalo" nickels are hard to come across.

Points of Interest

Although it is commonly known as the Buffalo nickel, the coin is actually named the Indian Head nickel but this name is rarely used by coin collectors. A second interesting misconception about the coin is that the beast on the back of the coin is not a buffalo at all, but a North American bison. It is believed that early European explorers found these new creatures to look similar to the buffalos of Africa and Asia and named them as such. Even though the two, buffalo and bison, are not the same, the terms are often used interchangeably as seen with the name Buffalo nickel even though the image on the coin is that of a bison.

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Tips to Use Cigar Humidifiers

Most cigar humidifiers, also known as humidors, are made from wood. They're usually lined with Spanish cedar or, less often, mahogany. These woods retain moisture well and are naturally resistant to mold. Humidifiers must be seasoned before use. To season them, the interior of the box is wiped down with a clean cloth or sponge that's been dampened with distilled water. Tap water is avoided because of the water's mineral content, which can build up inside and stain the humidifier. The wet sponge is left inside the humidifier and, as water evaporates off the sponge, it adds humidity to the humidifier. The box is wiped down with a damp cloth or sponge every day until the humidifier reaches 72 percent humidity. At that point, cigars can be stored in the box.

Humidity
Cigar humidifiers are used primarily to maintain a certain constant level of humidity. The humidifier is airtight so it can maintain that humidity. Cigars are best kept at 70 percent humidity. In this level of humidity, a cigar will retain 14 percent of its weight in moisture. At 70 percent humidity, the cigar's flavor best matures. As they are stored in the humidifier, they develop a more balanced, smoother flavor. Cigars will also burn more evenly if they are kept in humid storage. If cigars get too dry, they become fragile. They'll burn up more quickly. Humidifiers not only keep humidity high, but they make sure that humidity doesn't get too high. Damp cigars can become bitter and will not burn evenly. At more than 80 percent humidity, cigars are at considerable risk of becoming moldy, and therefore, ruined.

Hygrometer
Hygrometers, humidity, cigar humidifiers
A cigar humidifier uses a hygrometer to measure the humidifier's internal humidity. Hygrometers contain a filament that either shrinks or swells, depending on the surrounding humidity. The hygrometer measures this reaction to determine humidity levels.

Sponge
Sponges, water, the humidifier, humidity
The most common cigar humidifier contains a plastic or metal container that holds a wet sponge. If the humidifier doesn't have a container for a sponge, the sponge can be placed on a piece of plastic wrap. It is important that the wet sponge not rest on or touch any of the wood in the humidifier or the wood will soak up too much water. This wet sponge provides the water that creates a humid environment inside the humidifier. Wet it down on a weekly basis, or whenever it begins to dry out. These sponges are replaced at least every 2 years to minimize bacterial contamination.

Temperature and Light
To a small degree, cigar humidifiers will help maintain the cigars' storage temperature. Cigars are ideally kept at 65 to 70 degrees F. Storage temperatures below 55 degrees F can slow down the cigars' aging process. Temperatures of more than 75 degrees F can cause the cigars to rot. Direct sunlight can also cause rotting and, more directly, humidifiers play a role in minimizing light exposure.

Length of Storage
Because cigar humidifiers maintain an ideal environment for cigar storage, cigars can be stored in these humidifiers for long periods of time. Cigars are often stored in the humidifier for several months to ripen or mature. Premium cigars are often stored for several years as the tobacco's flavor is allowed to ripen fully.

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Old Buffalo Head Nickles Worth

The Indian Head nickel, commonly known as the old Buffalo Head nickel, was a five-cent piece minted in the early 20th century in the United States. It was designed by James Earle Fraser and retains a monetary worth far above its face value. Due to the metal value and the rarity of the coin in general, most collectors will purchase the Buffalo Head nickel for approximately seven times its value.

History
In the early 1900s, President Roosevelt introduced a campaign to change American coinage to add extra relief on the surface of each. Following the cancellation of the Liberty Head nickel, a Native American theme was chosen for the new nickel.

Features
The front side of the Buffalo nickel features a Native American chief based on Iron Tail, Two Moons and John Big Tree. The reverse side shows and American Bison based on Black Diamond at the Central Park Zoo.

Time Frame
The old Buffalo Head nickel was minted from 1913 to 1938. It was replaced in 1939 by the Thomas Jefferson nickel. In the 1950s and 1960s, the U.S. Treasury Department embarked on a mission to remove the coins from circulation.

Significance
The Buffalo Head nickel was still prominent in coinage through the 1980s. However, further actions from the Treasury Department have continued to destroy the availability of the coin to nearly nothing. Estimates from 2007 show that only one in 25,000 nickels feature the Indian Head.

Considerations
Shortly before production ended on the old Buffalo Head nickel, a number of coins were produced with an error. The Denver mint produced an unknown amount of "Three-Legged" Indian Head coins, in which one of the buffalo's legs was missing. These are worth anywhere from $400 to $1000.

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Tips to Buy Silver Online

Buying silver online is not difficult. Investing in silver is growing in popularity. Now there are easy ways to buy silver on the internet. Here's how to buy or invest in silver online.

Decide how to purchase the silver. There are multiple ways that you can buy silver online. Each has benefits and disadvantages.

(1) You can buy physical silver (e.g., silver coins or silver bars) online from a gold/silver dealer. The dealer then sends you the physical silver for you to hold.

(2) You can buy a silver ETF or ETN in your stock brokerage account. You buy and sell silver ETFs and ETNs just like you would buy any other stock or ETF.

(3) You can buy an ownership in silver bullion online from a holding company. The company stores and holds your physical silver for you (for a small commission). You can sell your silver back to the company online whenever you want.

(4) You can buy silver futures on a futures exchange.

Understand the different factors impacting the valuation of physical silver coins. A coin has value for at least two separate reasons. First, a coin made of silver has value due to the content of the silver in the coin ("the content value"). The more silver contained in the coin, the more that the coin will be worth (all other things being equal). Second, there may be a numismatic value to the coin. This is the value assigned to the relative rarity of the coin, and the investor interest in that particular coin (apart from just the silver in it). If you are just interested in investing in silver, and you are not a coin collector, then stick to buying more common coins. It is easier to buy and sell more common coins, and the value of the coin will track the price of silver more closely than a coin which is also valued for being a collector's item.

If you want to buy a silver ETF or ETN, understand how they are taxed. Not all silver ETFs are taxed the same. Silver ETFs use different methods to invest in silver. This means that they have different tax consequences. Consult with a tax adviser or financial planner if need be.

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Best Ideas for Becoming a Coin Dealer

Coin collecting can be both personally and financially rewarding. If you are considering turning your numismatic hobby into a business, you may be farther along that path than you are aware. The contacts you've made as a collector are readily transferrable to your new dealer status.

Start the business. If you are already well-vested in the hobby, beginning a business as a dealer may be as simple as hanging up a shingle over your own collection. However, if you're looking to turn your hobby to a long-term, profitable business, you need to be willing to invest time and money in the foundation. Start with a company name, business cards, and a website.

Create a library. If your bookshelves are not already lined with books on coins, becoming a dealer may be an unrealistic business model for you. Books such as The Official Redbook: A Guide Book of United States Coins; The Official American Numismatic Association Grading Standards of United States Coins, and the latest edition of U.S. Coin Digest are probably already staples of your coin library. However, you should also subscribe to magazines. Krause Publications publishes Coin World, Coins Magazine and Numismatic News, all of which are worth taking a look at.

Research coins and coin collecting. Before you can sell coins, you need to understand what will sell. Understanding coin value means knowing what is rare and what is in demand. While all numismatists want to get their hands on error coins or a 1969-S Lincoln penny, setting realistic sights is important.

Learn how to grade coins properly. Grading is about the condition of the coins and, if you do not understand the full worth of the coins with which you will be dealing, you will never be a coin dealer. The grading book in Step 2 is certainly a start, but nothing can replace hands-on training. Practice grading coins new to your collection against coins for which you already know the grade.

Build your collection. Purchase from coin and antique auctions and from fellow coin dealers. Once you have a good handle on what the buying public wants, buy what you can afford. Buy what sells.

Self-promote. Place advertisements in coin magazines and online (in places like eBay and Craig's List) to gather inventory and clients. Attend coin shows, join online coin blogs, and put yourself and your company out in front of the public. Consult the American Numismatic Association for upcoming events and information on coins and publications.

Offer personal service. Take orders for specific coins when you can, and use your connections to satisfy your clients' wants.

Be honest. If you want success in an industry that sometimes includes unsavory participants, being honest about your product will guarantee you repeat customers. Being a coin dealer means cultivating relationships with your vendors and your clients.

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Best Tips to Collect Mercury Dimes

The Mercury (or Winged Liberty Head) Dime was introduced in 1916 as a replacement for the Barber Head Dime. This new issue was designed by Adolph A. Weinman, who was a student of Augustus St. Gaudens, the famous sculptor. The year 1916 also featured the release of the Standing Liberty Quarter and Walking Liberty Half Dollar. These three coins showcase the beauty and appeal of the "Golden Age of American Numismatics." The Winged Liberty Dime depicts a young lady wearing a Phrygian cap with wings. Many people interpreted the design as a representation of Hermes (or the God Mercury), and thus, the dime had a nickname. The reverse of the coin has an illustration of the fasces, an ancient Roman symbol of war. This is a difficult set of coins to assemble--but if you have the chance to see one of the these little beauties--you will agree that the Mercury dime is a very pretty coin indeed! Here are some tips for collecting these gems.

RAREST DATE (1916 D)

Only 264,000 Mercury Dimes, 1916 D, were minted. Very few are available in Mint condition. This is the key date for the entire collection.

KEY DATE (1921 D)

Here is an important date, with just over 1.05 million minted. The scarce Mint state examples will command a premium of more than $1,500, and that is a conservative estimate.

* Note: I strongly recommend that the collector obtain certified specimens from NGC or PCGS (the only two universally recognized grading services).

KEY DATE (1921)

Another key to the set, and another low mintage of just over 1.2 million pieces. As in the above case, this is another tough nut to crack, with Mint state prices starting at $1,600.

Double Date Dime!
KEY DATE (1942 over 1941 D)

This is really an "error" coin; however, most serious collectors require this as part of the set. Mint state examples start at $3,000 and peak out at almost $10,000 in MS 65 condition.

SEMI-KEY DATES

This next listing includes the issues which are moderately priced, depending on condition (as always, graded coins are suggested):

1926 S/1928 S/1930 S/1931 D/1931 S/1934 D (large mint mark)

PROOF DIMES

The U.S. Mint started issuing Proof Mercury Dimes in 1936. The first year issue is now valued at $3,000. All of the early issues through 1942 are relatively expensive. Proof coins were discontinued until 1950. By that time, the Roosevelt head dime had replaced the Mercury design.

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Best Tips to Pick Cigars

Despite the anti-smoking hysteria that has swept the nation, there is nothing like an occasional good cigar. There’s sensuous pleasure to sniffing, then lighting, then savoring the tobacco that has been grown, aged and hand-rolled with a cordial or brandy.But picking that cigar for that special occasion may daunt the uninitiated. There are at least a couple dozen cigars available at most stores. There are many more at a cigar store. Where does one begin?Right here, actually.

Groucho Marx, a famous cigar smoker, screen, he
Do a little research. There are websites and several magazines that rate cigars. They also will have general information about types and tastes. While you may not like every cigar the editors recommend, these sources are a good place to start for a little cigar education.

Legend, it, President John F. Kennedy, 1,000 Cuban cigars
Walk into a tobacconist's shop. Only continue if the store has a walk-in—or at least glass-encased—humidor. The humidor is designed to keep cigars at the optimal humidity, around 70 percent. A tobacconist who doesn’t know this or have one probably isn’t the best bet for purchases.

Walk into the humidor. Stop and savor the aroma of the mix of rich tobaccos. Then start looking around. Pick up and sniff any cigar that appeals to you. You might like the dark, rich texture of a maduro (dark colored) cigar. You might like the light beige color of another. You might just like the box the cigars sit in or the color of the labels. It’s all up to taste.

Pick a selection of several cigars you get a good feeling about, or those that smell good. That really is how to pick a cigar: go with your instinct.

Sir Winston Churchill, another famous cigar smoker
Don’t pick a cigar based on price alone. Just because a cigar has a high price doesn’t mean you’ll like it. Some cigars considered excellent like Arturo Fuente and Partagas aren’t necessarily the ones you’ll like. Partagas, for example, tends to have a dry taste. Arturo Fuente can taste bitter. Dunhill cigars, enjoyed by Groucho Marx in particular, are high-class cigars that may or may not fit your taste.

Che Geuvara, the label, he
Remove the label, snip off the end and light the cigar with a wooden match for best flavor. Try each cigar on a different day. Try each one with your favorite drink. You will begin to discover the kind of tastes you like and those you don’t. Enjoy the experience. Don’t smoke a cigar when you don’t have the time to relax.

Find a cigar you really like and stick with it. At the same time, don’t be afraid to wander the tobacconist’s humidor from time to time to try others. Cigar companies introduce new variations occasionally, and it can be fun to try them.

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Ideas to Buy and Sell Coins In Market

Coin collecting has become one of the most popular hobbies in America. The success of the State Quarter program (1999 to 2008), Presidential Dollar coins and the First Spouse series (to name just a few) have brought millions of new enthusiasts into this hobby. The United States Mint has increased their advertising budget dramatically in recent years. There is a variety of coin shows on television. Newspapers often print full page announcements offering special deals on "rare" or "limited" sets, including Olympic coins, old silver dollars and "historical" issues. The Internet is loaded with websites for dealers. And on it goes. How can you navigate your way through the "jungle?" A little common sense, research and comparison shopping will save you a lot of money! Here are some do's and don'ts for any prospective buyer or seller of precious metals and coins.

Determine WHAT you want to collect. You have many choices. Are you trying to assemble a complete set of Lincoln pennies, Jefferson nickels or Washington Quarters? There are lots of choices. Perhaps you like Proof sets. Then again, you want to explore a "Type" set and try to collect a different coin of each denomination issue during the past 200 years. Finally, you may wish to speculate in the precious metals market (gold, silver or platinum bullion).

Take the time to thoroughly research coins and coin collecting. Subscribe to "Coin World" magazine, an excellent publication. Go to the website of the American Numismatic Association (ANA), which is chock full of useful information for the aspiring collector (see link in Resources below). Finally, there are hundreds of articles on every type/denomination of coins issued from the colonial era to the modern era. Before you buy or sell, learn the hobby!

In order to determine the value of a coin, it must be graded. Although there are several coin grading services out there, only two are recognized by the experts in the hobby: NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Corporation) and PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service). When a grade is established for a coin, a value can be placed on that coin. (The highest grade is 70.) The price is based on the grade and is accurately determined by an experienced dealer. A graded coin takes the guesswork out of pricing. On the other hand, a "raw" or ungraded coin can have any price, and you may be rest assured that the seller will not always get the best deal! Check out the websites for NGC and PCGS (see Resources below).

Do not purchase coins from TV coin shows. Although you may get a bargain here and there, you will almost always lose money if purchasing coins from a TV coin show. Most of these shows purchase their coins from the United States Mint, and mark up the prices accordingly. Or they send these coins by the droves to the grading services to establish a base price for the coins and sell them. You may be rest assured that it will be higher than is appropriate for the grade. Occasionally, the TV host will announce the "fill in the blank" hoard, which they acquired from estate sales or collectors. Their on-air personalities are colorful, and your hear the metronomic drone that coins are a great investment or a wonderful gift for children. Compare prices if you are tempted to buy, and buy graded coins if you must purchase "TV specials!"

Do not buy coins at flea markets. It costs money to rent space, and then there is the time the dealer has to invest. A lot of flea market dealers will purchase bulk lots of raw coins and place the said coins in their own "flips" or holders with an inflated grade. Most coins at flea markets are "raw" and in less than desirable condition. Any officially graded coins will be overpriced. For all intents and purposes, you are buying bullion.

Do not sell coins or precious metals to "hotel" dealers. Occasionally, you will see half or full page ads in your local newspapers announcing the purchase of "old" gold, silver, diamonds and so on with buzz phrases such as "highest prices paid," "certain coins might be worth $10,000," "instant cash for gold" and "old jewelry wanted." These nomadic dealers set up shop at a local hotel / function hall for a weekend and have a cadre of staff ready and eager to help. In most cases, they pay considerably below "spot" price" on bullion and their diamond/jewelry "experts" will pay less than real value. Are their scales certified or accurate? Most sellers are ordinary people and have no idea what a "gram" of gold is or what the carat number of their necklace or bracelet might be. It costs money for these folks to set up, pay their help and advertise these shows; someone has to pay the freight!

Do not buy or sell "raw" coins on the Internet. Here is the same old problem! Ungraded coins and a vague idea of their real value can really cost the uninformed collector a lot of money. Of course, you might think your "raw" coin is "almost uncirculated" or a "Mint State 62" and an Internet buyer will say it is "Extra Fine" or "Mint State 60." Beauty is in the eye of the beholder! Ditto for the profits! Here is another vote for graded coins; that is for sure!

Buy from reputable dealers, especially in your area. Make sure your dealer is an ANA member and has several years of experience in the hobby. Obtain references. As stated above, graded coins are the way to go. And if you are buying or selling bullion, be sure to check the daily "spot" price of the metal and negotiate the final price.

Brasher Doubloon (REV)
If you must purchase coins from a Mint, make sure it is the United States Mint. Forget about all of those other fancy names. If the company claims to be a "Mint" and their web site is NOT www.usmint.gov., stay away! Most of these are not really mints at all; they buy a lot of their products from the U.S. Mint and mark up the prices. Or they manufacture commemorative coins of their own. These are, for all intents and purposes, bullion pieces. Most are very difficult to sell. While some of the U.S. Mint products are speculative, most are priced fairly and are of great interest to the average or novice collector. -And they are great with the young hobbyist! And, on some occasions, you may land an instant rarity!

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Best Tips to Buy Old Silver Coins

Gold's little cousin, silver, is a metal for all purposes, such as industry, jewelry and currency. As a precious metal, silver is also an inflation hedge, making it a wise investment in times of economic trouble. Like gold, silver's value often goes up with the decline in value of the world's fiat currencies like the U.S. dollar. Sold and collected in coins, silverware and bars, silver can be bought and sold easily in today's marketplace, especially on the Internet. Silver is considered a precious metal but it is much more abundant than gold and therefore not as highly valued. However, that doesn't mean it isn't a good investment. The price of silver has increased in monetary terms by about 300 percent in the past five years. That's quite a return. Many experts expect the bull market to continue. Old silver coins like silver dollars before the 1950s are an especially fun way to buy silver.

Go to the bank. This method takes some patience but it works. Before 1964, all U.S. coins were made of a high percentage of silver so if you can find a quarter, for example, that was minted pre-1964, it is actually worth closer to $4 in today's silver prices. All you need to do is ask for rolls of quarters, dimes and nickels and check the dates. Keep the pre-1964 coins and return the rest for cash. Repeat.

Check online auction sites like eBay. Ebay has many auctions listed for old silver coins. Most of these coins consist of old silver dollars and other coins made before the 1950s when U.S. coins were actually made of mostly silver. Examples of these coins include the Peace Silver Dollar and the Morgan Silver Dollar. Regardless of their collector's value, these coins are worth approximately $12 apiece in today's silver prices. If in good condition and a rare date, they can be worth considerably more.

Go to local estate sales. Estate sales are like large garage sales and oftentimes you can find old coin collections that contain silver dollars and other old coins of high silver content.

Go to flea markets. Flea markets are good places to pick up old silver coins because coin dealers often have nowhere else to sell them, especially if they don't use the Internet. If you do go to one of these, it is a good idea to bring a coin guide like "The Red Book"–a coin collector's bible, to asses the value of the silver coins you find.

Shop for silver bullion coins online. Silver bullion coins of various dates can be bought in bulk. These coins come in various sizes but are sold at near-current market prices. Check the additional resources for reputable silver dealers.

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Tips to Buy Gold Coins

Gold Coins have been a favorite collectible for centuries. They contain one of the most precious elements on Earth and are beautiful to behold. Gold coins also convey history and art. Many people buy gold coins for both a financial investment and aesthetic pleasure. However, not all gold coins are created equal. Some have greater value for their gold while others are more valuable for their quality or rarity.

Understand what makes a gold coin valuable. The gold in it has value that varies depending on the current price of gold. The quality of the coin is also important. The less wear and handling on a coin, the more it is worth. Rarity is also a vital factor. The fewer gold coins there are like it in circulation, the more it is worth.

Decide whether you want to buy gold coins or gold coin bullion. Legal tender gold coins were minted as legal tender by governments around the world. Most were minted before the 1930's when the United States went off the gold standard. They have a stated value on them but are always worth much more because of the gold in them. Gold bullion can also be made to look like a coin but it is not legal tender. Bullion is made for the gold content although it is often cast with beautiful coin-like artwork. The main difference for the buyer is whether they want a coin that is gold or gold in the shape of a coin.

Choose your denomination if you want a legal tender gold coin. Most coin dealers consider the standard size for gold coins to be one ounce. This is approximately equivalent to a U.S. $20 gold coin and is about the size of a half dollar coin. You can buy smaller denominations. The United States also minted gold coins in $10, $5, $3 and $1 denominations. There are also foreign coins like the British Sovereign (about a quarter ounce of gold) and French 20 Franc (about a fifth of an ounce of gold) that are very popular.

Buy gold bullion in one ounce rounds. Nearly all investors in gold bullion coins buy them in one ounce increments. They are the easiest to buy and sell. One ounce gold bullion coins are issued by government mints around the world. The best ones to own are the most popular. They include the American Eagle, the South African Krugerrand and the Austrian Philharmonic.

Search the Internet for the current price of gold. Gold prices change daily and gold dealers base their prices on the daily rate. You need to know the current price of gold so you wont get cheated. Gold prices are stated as dollars per ounce.

Find a reputable gold coin dealer. Be sure they are establish and have a good reputation. Ask for recommendations and search the Internet for reviews.

Base your purchases on the current price of gold. If you are buying gold bullion coins expect to pay a small percentage more than the current price for gold. Make sure the bullion coins are in perfect condition with absolutely no sign of wear. Legal tender gold coins can vary in price depending on rarity and condition. Consult coins books and the Internet to determine a fair price. Pay close attention to the date and mint mark on the coin. This is was distinguishes one coin from another. Understand that the current price of gold will make this price rise and fall.

Turn to the Internet. You can also buy gold coins yourself over the Internet on auction sites like eBay. Understand the risks of buying on Internet auction sites. You are sending your money to a stranger hoping they will mail you gold coins. Be sure you are dealing with a reputable seller and insure all shipments.

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Tips to Collect Roosevelt Dimes

The death of Franklin D. Roosevelt in April of 1945 created a strong sentiment to issue a commemorative coin. After this idea was rejected, a regular issue coin was considered. Lincoln pennies (1909) Jefferson nickels (1938) and Washington quarter (1932) coins were deemed "untouchable." The only two remaining regular issue coins were half dollars and dimes. A number of special commemorative half dollars were already released. A replacement for the "Walker" half dollar (1916) was considered. After some debate, the ten cent coin was chosen. The old "Mercury" head dime had been minted since 1916, and it was time for a change. The designer of the FDR dime was John R. Sinnock who also went on to design the Franklin Half Dollar.

The standard 90% silver and 10% alloy was used from 1946 to 1964. The last year (1964) of mintage of silver dimes saw more than 2 BILLION coins struck! The original alloy was replaced with a "Clad" issue of 75% copper and 25% nickel outer shell with a pure copper core. The complete set is reasonably easy to collect. There are a few rare dates. Error coins are not considered part of the set. It can be a very good challenge to assemble an all uncirculated set. This is a great set for the young or novice coin collector to explore!

Follow these tips for collecting FDR dimes.

DIFFICULT DATES
Some of the years and/or mint marks are more difficult to collect. Included in this group are these issues:
1949 P, D & S; 1950 S; 1951 S; 1952 S; 1955 P, D & S; 1958 P

PROOF COINS
The early Proof FDR dimes were minted in Philadelphia starting in 1950. These were minted in relatively low quantities until 1956. Clad Proof coins are much more common. After a lapse of many years, silver Proof dimes (San Francisco mint mark) were resumed in 1992. With the exception of error coins and a few "special" issues, most clad Proof dimes are very easy to obtain.

ERROR AND RARE ISSUES
Error dimes are not considered part of the regular set. A few are very expensive. Here are the "tough" coins to acquire:
1950 S over D; 1960 Double Die Obverse; 1963 Doubled Die Obverse; 1964 Doubled Die Obverse 1982 (No mint mark); 1996 W Special Issue.
In addition, some of the Clad Proofs of the late '70s and early '80s had no ("S") mint mark.

Novice collectors should initially try to assemble a "year" set with one coin of any mint from each year (1946 to the present).
The next step is to collect all mint marks for each and every year.
The final step is the upgrade of as many coins as possible to Brilliant Uncirculated condition.

The rising cost of silver bullion will affect the cost of obtaining these coins. At $20 per ounce, common date circulated dimes will retail for approximately $2 each. If the bullion price continues to increase, there is the genuine possibility that many of the pre-1965 dimes, quarters and halves will find their way to the melting pot--increasing the prices for any specimens. We last saw this phenomenon in the early 1980s!

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Why Do Kites Have a Tail

Kites come in many shapes and sizes, but all have the same basic parts. Most kites need a tail for stability and proper flight--without a tail, a kite will come crashing back to Earth. Tails can also be used for decorative effect.

Why Do Kites Have a Tail

Tail as Necessity
Kites rely on their tails to create drag--that is, rather than just blowing over and under the kite, air is forced to move around the tail. This interaction keeps the wind in check, thus reducing its effect on the kite. One result of this is that a kite will point into the wind while its bottom points toward the ground. Small kites and flat kites won't last long in the air without tails.

On the other hand, some kite enthusiasts want their kites to roll and pitch, so a tail may not be used. Fighter or stunt kites, for instance, often are tailless.

Problems and Solutions
If a kite has trouble staying in the air, it might be because it has no tail or the tail isn't long enough to stabilize the kite. But a tail also can be the culprit by weighing too much and creating too much drag. Too much drag prevents a kite from gaining altitude. Generally, the lighter the wind, the shorter the tail should be, and vice versa. Not only does a longer tail in a challenging wind stabilize the kite, it also slows it down so it's easier to control.

Parts of a Kite
All kites have a frame covered by material and a string that will serve as a tether. This string, called the tow line or kite line, is attached to a bridle, which is another string attached to the top and bottom of the kite. The top of the kite is called the nose. Tails hang from the bottom of the kite and are made of lightweight materials such as crepe paper, streamers, plastic of the weight found in garbage bags, or long string with light ribbons tied at intervals along it.

Kite History
Kites have been flown for thousands of years and are not always considered simply toys. In Asia, they are often artistic and made musical by the addition of pipes that make sounds as wind passes through them. Kites were once used as protectors to keep people safe from "evil spirits."

Kites and Science
Although now flown mostly for fun, kites also used to serve as scientific tools. In the 13th century, scientist Roger Bacon studied kites' flying behavior, deciding that air, like water, had the potential to carry airships. The Wright brothers also drew on their understanding of kites to work out how to get aircraft to fly. In 1749, Alexander Wilson used kites to measure atmospheric temperature at different altitudes. In the early 20th century, meteorologists used kites to send meteorological equipment into the sky.

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Sew Fleece Hats in 10 Minutes

A simple fleece hat can be fun gift for friends or provide comfort for someone in a less-than-fortunate situation. You can make a fleece hat for family, friends, yourself or as a volunteer project in only 10 minutes. You'll need basic sewing knowledge, such as how to operate a sewing machine, to complete this craft.

Step 1
Measure the circumference around the head the hat is to fit. Cut a piece of fleece 14 inches long and as wide as the measurement around the head.

Step 2
Fold the fleece in half lengthwise. Fold again lengthwise so the fleece is in four layers. At the edge of both sides, approximately 6 inches from the top, cut all four layers of fleece to a point at the top. The cut will be slightly curved.

Step 3
Unfold fleece and with right sides together, sew each of the curved sections. On the two edges, sew the curved section, leaving the straight section unsewn.

Step 4
Turn the hat right-side out and sew the straight edge. Fold up the bottom of the hat, which will cover the stitching. Sew on tassels or fringe for decoration if you choose.

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Fun Ways to Display Hats

Whether you collect vintage hats, cowboy hats, or baseball caps, you need a way to store, care for and display your hats. Moreover, you may want a display that is a bit more unusual than a basic hat rack. If you sell hats, your displays are even more important and may need to stand out from the crowd. With a bit of forethought you can find interesting ways to display hats at home, in stores, or at a craft show.

Hat Rack Alternatives
While an attractive hat rack or hall tree will display and store your hats, you may not be able to see them to their best advantage and delicate hats may suffer from this sort of display. One easy option for hat display and storage is open shelving. Hats of any sort can be stuffed with tissue paper for support and placed on shelves. Consider grouping your hats together by color, style or team. You can also create pedestals for your hats. Drill a hole in simple wood bases from the craft store and mount a dowel into that hole. Place a painted or covered styrofoam ball on the other end of the dowel. Several of these in different sizes can help maintain the shape of your hats and display them nicely. Create a primitive-style hat display by bending wire clothes hangers into curves or rounds and slipping the ends through drilled holes in a board.

Creative Displays
If you are looking for more playful or whimsical hat display ideas, visit your local craft store. Artificial fruit, ranging from apples and oranges for baby hats to gourds and pumpkins for adult hats can hold and display hats. This is especially ideal for knit or stretchy hats. Group smaller pieces of fruit in a large basket. If you prefer to scatter your collection, consider placing hats atop antique bottles or canning jars, large vintage spools, or even a pair of vintage cowboy boots. Integrate your hats into other collections by adding baseball caps to sporting memorabilia or cowboy hats to Western style items. Any fairly solid and reasonably tall item can display your hat collection.

Use Your Hats
You can use your hats in your home decor, giving them new purpose. Hang a hat by a large ribbon on a door or window in place of a wreath. Use a beautiful vintage hat as a centerpiece or table decoration. A spring hat can work well with millinery-style birds, especially if flanked by vases of spring flowers. Tip a sturdy hat upside down and fill it with lightweight seasonal decorations, like glass balls or Easter eggs. You can even use a festive hat as a Christmas tree topper. Try a cowboy hat with an embellished band for a Western style tree or a floral hat from the 1950s for a shabby chic look.

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Putting Tips on Calligraphy Pen

A calligraphy pen will come with several parts. You will have a pen holder, which can be made of plastic or wood. There are pen nibs, which you will be inclined to think of as pen tips. Reservoirs are small metal coverings for the nibs. They have flaps that will grip the nib and stay in place to hold ink or paint. It takes a few simple steps to put the tips or nibs into a calligraphy pen.

Pen Holder
Place your pen parts on the table. Choose the pen nib that you want to use for your calligraphy project. It will have a piece of metal that goes with it. This is the reservoir that helps to hold the ink or paint.

Pen Holder with Metal Grips
Look for the metal grips in the top of the pen holder. There are two open areas in the metal that are the inserts for pen nibs.

Look for Embedded Line in Nib
Notice the line that is molded into the pen nib.

Nib, Holder and Reservoir
Use your fingertips to push the pen nib or tip into the metal slot of the pen holder up to the line that is molded into the nib. Hold the base of the nib when inserting it into the holder.

Put the reservoir on after the nib is seated into the pen.

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Requirements to Join Pilot Training School

Taking flight begins with pilot-training school, but preparation can begin long before you test for a pilot certificate. Chart a scholastic course that will help ready you for the challenges of pilot-training school and the knowledge requirements of earning a pilot certificate.

Misconceptions
A major misconception about earning a pilot certificate is that candidates need an aviation background prior to joining pilot training school. Military service or an aviation degree are not pre-requisites for pursuing your certificate and the school you choose will not ask for transcripts. Specific courses are not required for joining or being accepted into pilot training school, but the academics of aviation must be learned to pass a mandatory Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) Knowledge Test before earning your certificate. According to the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) Flight Training magazine, the test covers such topics as aerodynamics, weather situations, navigation principles and stall/spin awareness.

Preparation
Many students prepare for the FAA test by attending ground school prior to or during pilot training, while others gain the knowledge through independent study. However, test scores and air safety can be optimized through numerous classes taken before joining a pilot training school.

Science
Ismar Avdic, aviation expert at recommends future pilots study sciences that will help them better understand aeronautical and aerodynamic principles. Physics, the study of matter and its motion through space, is a practical choice. Earth science is also beneficial because it includes meteorology.

Mathematics
Avdic also advises aspiring pilots take math courses. Calculus is the study of change, a gateway to advanced understanding of functions and limits, and is generally preceded by trigonometry, which studies triangles and is important in space navigation.

English
English is the universal language in aviation and required of all pilots by the FAA. Speak, read and write it proficiently. Non-English-speaking students will have limitations placed on their pilot certificate.

Electives
Pilots must understand mechanics and electronics, so courses in such are beneficial. Geography will enhance map-reading skills and locale knowledge. A study in world cultures will assist those wishing to fly internationally and health and first-aid courses are helpful no matter where one goes. Classes that promote leadership and communication are useful since pilots must keep order, as well as delegate and relay information to many different people.

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Tips to Make Wine Yeast

If you have ever been one to experiment in the kitchen or in the classroom laboratory, you have probably wondered if you could make your own wine. Grapes are usually available year-round and, of course, sugar is cheap. Wine bottles can be scrounged up and even some 5-gallon glass carboys can be found at yard sales. Finding the yeast, though, is a little different since it is not something normally stocked at your grocery store---and a specialty store might not be close by, either. So, you can try making your own strain. Here are a few tips on getting it started.

Step 1
Place the grapes (ones with the white powdery sheen are best) in a ceramic or glass bowl and crush them so that the juice is released and they are no longer recognizable as grapes. Any utensils you use must be well sanitized to prevent bacterial growth. Add enough of the orange juice so that the fruit is just covered. Add sugar. Stir well, then cover it with a cloth or kitchen towel. Place bowl in a warm area, from 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Step 2
Allow the mixture to sit and ferment for a day or two until it has reached a good bubbling stage and you can see at least an inch of a foam layer on the top. This might happen sooner or longer depending on how many yeast cells were present on the grape skins. Stir the mixture every 6 hours or so during this sitting time, as the oxygen helps the fermentation.

Step 3
Stir the mixture well and pour it through a coarse strainer after it has reached the good bubbling stage.You can either bottle this up and place it in the refrigerator to slow down the fermentation, or add this wild yeast to a 5-gallon batch of prepared juice for wine fermenting. Save about one half cup for a new batch if you want to do it again.

Step 4
Add 2 more cups of grape juice to the half cup set aside in Step 3, to continue growing your strain of yeast for future batches of wine. Make sure all your utensils are well sanitized each time you make a new batch so bacteria are not introduced to the mixture. Give it time to ferment in a warm place as before. Strain and bottle it once it has the 1-inch layer of foam on top.

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